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Not quite sure what why highly trafficked area has any bearing on what is proposed but stud walling would be my selection. A few pics of how I did my wc/closet. Basically 4 x 2's screwed to walls, ceiling, floor and infilled.

In theory a frame made like that in hangman gallows style should not drop if the joints a 100% fixed. But I assume the joints are screwed joints and with such a light frame its obvious that the weight of your slats have pulled it out of alignment. Only thing I would suggest (bar a new gate) is...

And if you filled in the hole to the top with a hosepipe what absorption rate do you get over 24hrs , nil or x litres

I assume he's referring to you now wanting to put in a high level patio area which was not part of the original building regs application, so based on that, the air bricks are where they should have been and as such there was no poor design or layout involved. Having a step down into the new...

That's interesting. Looking at the the appliance casing fitting instructions it would appear to be just sliding fit side panels, with push fit top and bottom panels and the front panel semi hinged into position and secured with a screw for electrical safety. Cannot see that being an effective...

Make sure hinge screws are not loose. All depends how much of a gap you have at the hinged side whether you deepen the hinge rebates or plane outer edge of door.

I went the other way, increased my payment to £10 and got 30GB

Running the calcs 50 x 125 - no Taking a min load of 125kg and snow load of 75kg, 50 x 150 (c16 or c24) would suffice Taking max load of 250kg and snow load of 75kg, 50 x 200 or 75 x 150 (c16 or c24) would suffice Snow load could be increased to 100kg if you are in Scotland or high ground

Not advisable to dot and dab on external walls unless - "This method is suitable for use on brick, block or concrete cavity or rendered solid walls, which are dry, stable and free from moisture penetration." - Info as per Kingspan K118 brochure sitework section and "Drywall adhesive dab bonding...

Yes allowable deflection 6mm but actual deflection 0.6mm (assuming C16 at 400 c/c), actual bending moment 1/6 of allowable bending moment

The span will be 2m, TRADA tables suggest noggins on spans greater than 2.5m, noggins are there to stop long slender joists twisting and losing their rigidity/deflection in the x- x plane so would offer little benefit in this case.

Why noggins?

Good quality steel drill and start drilling from the outside or get a locksmith in to do it for you

Calculate what size radiator is required in each room and add together to give necessary boiler output BTU Calculator | Radiator Calculator | Simple Heat Calculator (bestheating.com) Heating Calculator - BTU Calculator (plumbnation.co.uk)

Interesting reading Worcester Bosch vs Viessmann Boilers - Boilerhut

Info gleened from elsewhere If a boiler is oversized it will ‘cycle’ on and off excessively, heating up too quickly to only run for a short period, only to turn itself off because it’s too hot. Each fire up is something close to full capacity which dumps a huge amount of heat into the system...

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Will have to pass on a theoretical analysis of that but any increase from 15mm to 22mm (especially on bends, tees etc.) could reduce frictional resistance by quite a bit but to how much benefit??

If its a gulley with a trap on it the stones will just settle in the bottom of the trap and can be fished out by hand if need be now and again. Unless the pebbles have kamikaze tendencies you are not likely to get many pebbles down there. Also instead of pea gravel use 1/2" size pebbles around...

Thats my take on it (as was my builders) as per picture, although others views may differ