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Look like a stopcock with the handle missing to me.

A large vented hot water tank, a cold feed tank in the loft, a Stuart Turner 3 bar pump and y plan valve. That will give you loads of hot water and the pump will give excellent showers. Keep the boiler just don't use the hot water side of it.

Why are you changing the cylinder?

I've been using these for years without any issues, I do cycle all of them every 3 months. https://www.screwfix.com/p/full-bore-lever-ball-valve-yellow-15mm/80413?tc=BT6&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclsrc=ds&gclsrc=ds

Why is there 15mm pipe out of the 3 way valve?

Will this not replace your existing one. https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/siemens-cmv322-midposition-motorised-valve-p-228.html does this old thread help https://community.screwfix.com/threads/siemens-ma-v322c-motorised-3-way-valve.87960/

Sorry, typo on my part. Do a Google search for an ma-v322c. It's printed on the top of the valve body.

Do a Google search on mv-322c, loads available.

I'll second the Honeywell lyric.

With the Honeywell app you can control everything remotely.

Look at a Honeywell lyric.

Not unless the zone valve is open. Otherwise it won't have any effect.

If the boiler fires up on the frost stat and both 2 way valves are closed then unless you have a bypass valve there's nowhere for the water to go to lose heat, hence the boiler kettles. Can you find the bypass valve and check whether it's sufficiently open?

Ribbed seals are fine.

Now that made me laugh.

Sticky flow switch maybe.

Here's a picture.

I had the same problem a few years ago and found an adapter that fitted onto the toilet outlet and reduced to 90mm for the soil pipe. Got it from a builders merchants. Ridgeons if I remember correctly.

In your first picture i see a stopcock, the pipe it feeds fills your cistern, but it also goes vertically on from there, so turning it off will have an effect on whatever is at the end. Turn it off, flush the toilet to empty the cistern and then use old towels to soak up the rest.