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Not sure what other option I have apart from the soft adapter. Given that below is gravel and under that bricks and under that sand I'm thinking any minor leaks and it'll just drain away. No DPM in sight and after all these years everywhere is dry as a bone! I had to make a decision so did as...

I've only got 140mm from the top of the clay pipe to the floor level so I also have to account for some screed/concrete on top - say 50mm. That only gives 90mm of height to get the boss on hence I'm looking at different options. How about this one (end pipe to be cut and plugged.

I bought the McAlpine and it looks like it's a good fit with enough clearance around so I think I'll use that. Just thinking about how to connect the 40mm waste. What's the best option here: 1. Boss is on awkward angle but maybe use some CT1 instead of solvent weld? 2. Waste in at the end...

Will do Ta.

Didn't know you could get those thanks.

Oh dear. It cracked! That concrete was just too strong a mix! Are these any good underground to connect into the clay pipe:

After spending a few hours getting dusty here is what I've found. The trap is joined with Hepworth sleeve to a clay pipe that runs horizontally (with a fall) under the house. Do I remove that sleeve and fit a flexible adapter like this...

Great info once again, thanks. I'll start digging!

Is that in case it blocks in the future? Thanks

Finally got to round to doing this. Here is what it looks like. You were right Hugh Jaleak, there is a trap/u-bend under there. I've just put my hand in there to clear it out. Nice! The start of the clay pipe is level with the foam (bleach) in the picture. It's about 190mm below the floor level.

I'm overboarding a ceiling which currently has coving. But, I don't want coving so what's the best way to board it so I don't end up with cracks at the edges? The walls are have a hardwall and skim finish. Do I: 1. Cut out the hardwall and overboard into the cut out? 2. Just board to the...

There are different gadgets available to hold the string but something like this maybe

Are you saying you have a single brick at each end of the wall and the string won't stay in place when run between them? If so, try using more than one brick at each end so they stay in place. Then put one or two bricks on top of the string. Like this:

I'd like underfloor heating - maybe a hybrid system with radiators as well, but I don't fancy digging up the existing 6mx6m concrete to put insulation in it. I know there are "thin" options but these things just escalate. My next project I'm definitely just knocking down whatever is there...

What sort of backing do the carpets have? We had a room that had a damp musty smell. I thought it was damp. Turns out it the carpets were old and the foam backing had deteriorated and that was the source of the smell. As Woody says, probably a bit of mould in there as well. New carpets and...

I'm now thinking, as you say, there's no insulation so there is no point removing the inner block. Maybe I should just take the old mortar off the top and it is then pretty close to the level of the concrete anyway.

No underfloor heating. Fair point about the drying time. However, it takes me months to get stuff done and the vinyl will probably be one of the last things I do. I'll get a price for the liquid screed to compare - but it would go against my current ethos of spending days doing stuff that a...

Ok ta!

Great info thanks. I was wondering if getting a company in to flow screed it was worthwhile rather than me just doing it the old way? The extension is 16m2 but given the existing screed has a 2cm fall to one side I may end up using a lot of levelling compound.

Thanks, I'll remove both walls. It's being done under pre June 2022 although I'm working to the new regs where it makes sense eg. insulation. What is the change in the new regs for bonded / unbonded? Just had a search and Part E, 5.22 mentions something but other than that? I have around...