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4" Through the wall. Into a branch tee. Up to durgo in the left hand corner. Other socket of tee then goes to pan. Orient branch tee as you can (either vertical or horizontal) Use Rigid pipe over to pan so you use a multi quick or straight pan con from spigot to pipework - not a flexi pan con.

Ever heard the expression... "buying a dog and barking yourself"? The way I said to do it is the way I would do it for a customer. If they had other ideas of their own... I'd still do it and charge them but the onus would be on them! Back to wall pan, Boxing or furniture unit, concealed...

I've already told you what I would do.

You're finding problems where they are unlikely. Catastrophising!

Pipe it properly and it won't block. Don't put wet wipes down it. It can always be rodded from the inspection chamber.

Buy a cistern with a flush plate then all the gubbins can be changed via that. As for durgo, get a push fit mcalpine one so that you can lift off the shelf of the boxing and pull it off the top of the stub stack for maintenance. That's what I'd do. Sell the old bog on ebay. Someone will buy it.

In your situation, I'd be building a box with a concealed cistern and back to wall pan and put a stub stack with an AAV inside the cistern box.

They allow air in, not out. So in principle, an AAV at the top of any dead branches. SVPs can be anywhere along the run as they breathe in and out. Quite often, an anti vac on a basin waste will suffice, but each situation has its own requirements.

I'd put one in. 2" should be ok. As I always say... "it's better to be looking at it than for it!"

Everyone wants a simple solution, but if that won't work... Guess what!

There are pros and cons to any system. Too many to list here as there'll be some missed. A good installer should ask you as many, if not more, questions than you ask them. Really, all you need to ask is what do they recommend and why. We need to know your lifestyle, expectations and plans...

I think control logic is a little better these days! :rolleyes:

If you're doing a lot of work on the floors it's well worth it. UFH needs much lower flow temp so you'd be future proofing for when we are forced to use low temp heating systems.

You could fit the manifold (which really needs primaries to it, from the boiler in 22mm flow and return). Install the loop for the first room. Run lengths of UFH as tails from the manifold for all the other rooms to positions where they can be picked up later, when doing each additional...

As I said above. Can't fault what they did for my customer.

New olive. Paste. Ptfe. Whatever it takes. It won't take a lot.

If incorrectly connected, when was this done? And how did it happen? Was it after a routine service? Else it would have been an issue from whatever point it was done! So... Think back to when the issue first started to occur!

And that's what should be. A lot of these outlets are constantly looking for cheaper ways to sell stuff not fit for purpose.

These things are sold on looks. You need to spend £££s to get one that also performs as a decent emitter!

Worcester are usually pretty good with this. I've sent a few customers the FPR route... Including one that had never been registered. They actually registered it for the customer and replaced the Hex FOC! Pretty darn good service, I have to say. Still don't like the boilers though!