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I think FIL is inserting it afterwards. A bit backwards I know. It was free from a mate in the pub, hence my concern.

Installed at in-laws. I've not seen it on my travels when doing my own extension, and it's a funny height too (not usual 900mm batts). 20161019_162051 by mfarrow posted 27 Oct 2016 at 7:17 AM20161019_162057 by mfarrow posted 27 Oct 2016 at 7:16 AM

Where/is there a back box?

The first solution would certainly be more acceptable. Generally you'd need access for a bend >45 deg. So at 30 and <6m run you should be OK.

This doesn't sound like an unvented cylinder? Just a closed central heating system.

I would try and find the 20% bridge, you'll be surprised how much needs to be done before the BC sign off. Electrics, plumbing... you'll be doing things in the wrong order (eg electric sign of before plastering) and not really saving yourself a lot in the long run.

It does seem like backside covering. Our house was done in 1958 with Ashathene. Very good cabling of which I found intact lengths of when digging the extension footings. None of the capping is earthed.

It's on the top of Dad's mower petrol can, so I've known it since 8. Ish.

You'll be fine with the head above as shown. The manufacturer should state an overhead height. Generally higher the better, eg 6'6"

We used light aerated blocks for our floor. Maybe ring the manufacturer and ask them to advise? LiteCast was our manufacturer and 20kg/m @3m meant they were a doddle to put in place. Use medium concretes on the outer skin, especially if you've not decided on render or slips yet. As stated, U...

Agree with woody. We did a build-over and shuffle/replacement. Compared to what I've read elsewhere about other areas there wasn't any rubbish about replacing clay with clay and the pipe needing to be a bus journey away from the foundation. Just copy some good practise cross sections showing...

I did this on my own, smaller connection (branch versus manhole) and using my own 4.5" angle grinder. I took the top off first then angle grinded the bottom half from the inside. It worked quite well, and I'd suggest packing something under the pipe to stop it snapping at an unforgiving point...

@noseall My response was a reply to Vinn expecting the OP to be thoughful enough to include photos of the whole house and all its walls in the first post - not in response to members follow-on queries.

I don't think the OP came in thinking he'd need to defend his decision to render. Its like posting in Electrics and saying "I'm having a rewire, can I save this bit" accompanied by a piccy of some new cable to a cooker circuit you think might be possible to keep and save some money on. He...

Ah, sorry i thought they were the same as all the others they pictured :-(

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/machine-screws/8507461/ They also come in 75mm.

Is there a guard behind the cooker MCB? It looks a bit suspect to me. And possibly upgraded at some point looking at its position, perhaps badly! I assume the cable size is OK?

A kitchen sink will be OK, assuming you've not got an aerator on the end, but these can usually be unscrewed. The main reason for the check is to, in theory, validate the pressure drop: 10m of 15mm pipe will lose you 1.9bar @ 30 l/min. Whereas 20m length with same parameters loses 3.8bar...