Search results

I take it you won't be sticking any photos on of your garden walls done in that style then?

When I first saw a house done like that I thought the outer skin had been ripped out.

Bit more for Surrey.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=weeping%20joint%20brickwork%20photos&view=detailv2&FORM=IQFRBA&id=91F0150785AA8DD1FAF92550E949832D025D8AD7&&expw=755&exph=400&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fth.bing.com%2fth%2fid%2fR.ab4fd3d24595264afff092165458dd0d%3frik%3d14pdAi2DSelQJQ%26riu%3dhttp%253a%252f%252fma...

There's around 20 different styles of pointing, but the concave half round (bucket handle) and flush are the most common for new work. The best jointers are made by Rose.

Yes, it's still on sale. I need a new one, I've worn the old one down working for subbies, so it's doing 5mm joints now.

There was a hire mixer brought back to Jewsons yesterday that had been used for a resin drive and the drum was wrecked.

The problem with deep fills is that they can look well compacted, but below isn't. They are supposed to be wacked every 6 inches, but this doesn't normally get done. They often find with road repairs that it will sink a bit in the first 6 months. For concrete floors a maximum fill of 600mm is...

Might be worth leaving it for a while to allow for any settlement.

The DPC is a bit of a slip plane, so does allow a bit of movement. Also the masonry below isn't affected by temperature changes as much.

When a crack stops at the DPC, it's often thermal, but when it goes into the ground it's more likely to be a foundation issue.

I'd never have guessed that.

The most difficult bricks I've worked with for different sizes were reclaimed ones which had come off a few different jobs. You need to check the different sizes before you start, and then take your time setting out the first course. When building up the corners use the bigger ones as using the...

I'm baffled a CoW would agree to those cuts.

If you agreed to all the cuts there's not much you can argue with him about. Even if the bricks vary in length a bit, if you set it out properly you wouldn't need all those cuts. I can't believe you couldn't spot all those almost straight joints in person.

A mate of mine works at Jewsons in the tool hire. He cleans the mixers with industrial strength acid and gravel, running them for an hour or more. They get charged for the damage, and sometimes a new drum if it's been used for a resin drive.

The reason for the crack is that different materials have been used in the new work, so it will always expand and contract differently to the rest of the wall. Also wall starters were designed mainly for lateral restraint. Ideally if the wall is clay brickwork, the wall should be toothed out...

There's a much simpler method, but I'm a bit too busy on mumsnet for the the next couple of weeks to explain.

For the benefit of the OP, BennyS, I've noticed that your house is a 60's semi. It's worth listening to the different pros and cons of CWI, as once it's in it's expensive to remove. If it was mine I'd definitely consider getting it put in. Things to consider are what zone you're in, how exposed...

That's one of them. There is a slightly more expensive one that delivers 10J. To get that sort of impact you normally have to pay someone like Hilti a lot of £. Some people find it a bit heavy to work with for longer periods, but I use it quite a lot. I've found that because it hammers the bit...