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Really useful thanks. Measuring the brick to brick outside wall my first thought but as it tapers I was nervous in case the taper continues further back than it looks, on this old house anything is possible! Sash windows I find really interesting and as long as I can put it back together I'm...

So you'd break in from the inside of the room rather than remove the sashes and get in from the sides? I never realised there WAS a plasterboard reveal but have just checked - thanks :)

I'm looking to replace this traditional wooden sash window with a modern (non sash) uPVC window: I'm struggling to figure out what size the new window should be since the existing frame obscures it. The internal aperture is a different size to the external aperture, and the external aperture...

I was looking at K17/K18 and the latter is suitable for direct mechanical attachment without battening or adhesives. It looks like Celotex do something similar. What exactly is different about k18? This seems a real bonus on the face of it.

Performance gap and all that. Have you ever measured your "correctly cut" boards' performance? IIRC the latest regs mean you have to prove it works I like the idea but as OP says it's pricy. If only PIR was a bit more squishy :)

When we replaced the main wooden sup-structure structure on our part-brick greenhouse some months ago we used Coroline corrugated bitumen roof sheeting - we got the roof on and had to pause for a while before completing the walls: At the time it seemed a good idea to throw a membrane (big...

I am going to self-install a couple of UPVC windows in a wooden-frame shed/garden room - basically a 6x2" stud wall. Everything makes sense mostly, but I am confused what product to use on the woodwork to provide a good seal. I know some sort of flashing is needed at the base but is that just...

I didn't think of using my little grinder. But, I figure I'll need a circular saw blade because even if I only have to rip one board that's going to be worth it! I might even see if I can 'massage' the design slightly to avoid ripping any full-length planks since at this stage I still have the...

Cheers @JobAndKnock yeah for cutting 20cm cuts on 8mm boards the cutting depth isn't a factor. I'm planning to have a guillotine and just use the saw for angles or a few rips - I might get carbide jig-saw blades for fiddly bits. This will all be done in a big outdoor space but I will get a...

I have the Dewalt DCS570N (https://www.dewalt.co.uk/products/dcs570n-xj--18v-xr-brushless-184mm-circular-saw-bare-unit#anchor_-1733588132) which runs a 184mm blade with 16mm bore and 65mm cutting depth. I'm after a cement-fiber blade for a fairly small one-off project and I've never bought a...

It depends if the surface is designed/able to be adhered to. D&D is designed to glue well to paper... but shiny metal foil coatings on PIR boards, you want to make sure it's the right adhesive. If there is an adhesive that advertises working on PIR boards and on brick I would trust it (no idea...

I think you could get away with 25x50 or 25x38 retaining battens so you're only saving an inch but those mechanical fixings are quite pricey. I think testing it on a 50x50cm mockup you can glue on and try to pull down might be sensible :)

Going back to my wall lining, I was wondering about your 2nd suggestion being equally applicable to me? Instead of battening and then insulating between and having to put additional insulation on top - could I line the whole wall with PIR boards, batten on top and then affix plasterboard? There...

It's surprising what you can do with a hand saw, those Japanese pruning saws are great. That said, basic chainsaw safety is not hard, even speaking as someone who is quite cautious... Removing limbs or feeling small trees is quite reasonable. But I'm really strict about PPE even for minor work...

It's not really our business but I'm not sure why you assume it's not his house in the first place. Seems you're only asking so you can criticise?

What is the construction of the wall and does the exterior show signs of any problems? Are you certain water is coming through the wall rather than a leak from roof/gutter, and have your determined it's not condensation... A LOT of damp problems are. If the plaster on the wall has got damp...

Ah yes I see. The outlet directly on the tank is old and seized but we got new pieces to fit the thread so finding a T wouldn't be hard to go in line, assuming I can find clear pipe in a standard size.

That all makes sense, can you fit them from one side only e.g. no nuts on the inside? Guess this would be neatest if so, but the floating rod idea is neat and avoids holes :) Thanks

Not seen one of those before but if they're that chunky a petrol pole saw struggles I think you really need to be at the height you're cutting for control. I've seen people user a recip saw for this but really the right tool is a chainsaw especially if there are several to do

Moving the bolt/handle latch seems easiest if it does still close OK. If it sags even further, maybe you could re-fit the hinges. On the face if it, it all looks to be quite nicely done so I'm a bit surprised to see it move so soon but maybe the weather hasn't helped.