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Of course the 900 x 600 are virtually 3 feet x 2 feet and probably a "metric replacement exact size" to avoid repiping and to preserve a similar heat output.

I do not think it is in any way due to manufacturing costs. I have always thought that a size like 900 x 600 is very commonly used and therefore if they make that bit cheaper they might get all 10 rads bought from them just because one or two common sizes are better value.

You may need to loosen the gland nut on the stopcock under the handle to make it easier to turn off. Stop cocks need to be exercised every three months. The one going to the old garage may be what holds the water in so do not turn it on as you might find yourself flooding the new room.

You should measure the room temp and then run the fan heater for an hour and measure the new temperature. With -1 C outside you need to be able to raise the temperature by 22 C to give you 21 C inside. But generally fit the largest rad that you can get to fit in the space so presumably a 500...

Is that because you are not reheating the tank during showering times? A slightly shorter shower time solves many problems. Or replacement shower heads giving a lower flow rate!

100mm above and 100 mm below should be fine. I thought you had said the window was double glazed and it looked as if it was in your photo.. The big advantage of the three rad solution is that you can use a longer centre rad if you do not need rad valves on it. If the window is not double...

You should not heat the cylinder water above 65 C as that is unnecessary and risks scalding. For most people 55 C to 60 C is adequate. The safety cut out should operate at 85 C which gives a fair degree of separation. But the actual thermostat operation temperatures are not very accurate...

My advice would be to go for 500 mm high rad. You can oversize a rad with no problems but cannot undersize. I would suggest about 200 watts per square meter if you have solid walls and two external walls. Or 150 watts psm if you have only one external wall. If you are struggling for heat...

The "off" condition occurred a few days before I needed to take it for an MOT. So how to make my cat happy? The off condition shows no obvious connection with long motorway journeys.

You have said you have water coming out of the condensing vent pipe. That implies a split main heat exchanger! I am not familiar with your boiler but that would usually be a serious fault and potentially an expensive repair. Running it very long in this condition will give severe sludging up...

My petrol 1974cc Peugeot 307cc 2004 year goes through long cycles of showing an antipollution fault. Typically fault on for about seven weeks and then off for five weeks. Can anyone suggest what might be causing the fault to be displayed and then to disappear? There is no obvious change to...

I would strongly suggest you fit the new stat and follow Harry's advice about boiler flow temperature. The shorter the time the boiler is actually heating the water the lower the likely gas consumption. And then get a time clock set to ensure it only heats the cylinder before the water is to...

Your 24Ri is about as efficient as any other current new boilers. They are also pretty reliable too. As well as quite easy to repair if they were to develop a fault. I do not know why you think cylinders only last 20 years. An older copper cylinder can easily last for 60 years. And many of...

You could have bought a replacement valve head. Or if the motor was failed just a motor!

And you should have turned both valves off first using the spindle turned clockwise using a knob or mole grip.

I would never recommend fitting a combi to replace a system with a servicable hot water cylinder. Apart from the lesser performance the cost is likely to be at least twice the cost for no benefit. But why not get the boiler repaired?

With the proper components it does not need any sealant. Although some less competent installers still think they should use it. But using it can hide improperly fitted or tightened parts.

When selecting the thermostat position you need to consider the height of the heating coil. And if the flow is in at the top or the bottom. On a pumped system it is often better to put the flow into the bottom as it heats up quicker and will heat up more water in the cylinder. The pump flow...

Telling us the boiler make and model might get you more useful replies!

The reason you think none of your friends have them is because most people never know they have them! But if I ever need to drain a system I always look for an external drain point outside first as that is far quicker and easier.