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to be fair, by your own admision, the boiler is 16 years old. not bad going for a cheap boiler. plus if the copper is corroding, it may be that you have some underlying issues with your system. maybe its time to pony up and have your heating cleaned , chemicaly proteced and a new boiler put on...

this is what i meant....just put better :lol:

i was going to say that originally but thought i would get bg abuse. but yeah you've done very well for a halstead

utter crap pvm.

you say it is showing the syphon fill program frequently. get someone to check that your boiler has both 'switched' and 'permanent' live supplies. this will cause issues if there is no permanent live.

your clock is old and essentialy out of date. whilst going through the cost and upheaval of a new boiler, and considering that it has crossed your mind anyway, why not just go for it and update the controls to make the most of your new boiler.

i call troooooollllloooolllllooooolllooooo biasi :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

the powerflush does flush all the radiators and the heat exchanger as long as its done correctly. i know we get a bit of bad press in here, but i can say for the guys that flush on my team, that they do it bang on. the diagnoses leading to powerflush are sometimes questionable however. in the...

seco's point is you have one thread...stick with it. and stick with my advice. :)

had a look on my laptop and it appears to be no longer available.

he said that the sensor cable what? look, i dont feel you know what you are doing, you are going inside parts of the boiler best left to a professional. get a recommendation and call someone in.

might as well stick it in the loft as any decent boiler now will have negligeable heat loss. just have rad stuck in the room.

had the same fault on one of these last year. iirc the thermostat is 'first' in line on demand, and then the timeswitch. bridge out, both the thermostat AND the timeswitch and see what happens. took 3 phonecalls to poxi before the 'tech' help actually listened to my readings.

i would start by calling in a qualified engineer to work on your boiler.

as mentioned, get the to check the 'working' pressure and also to remove the gas valve and inspect the inlet gauze. also by this point you should expect thier service manager to get involved. this should be escaleted anyway with the amount fo visit you have had.

ther's only so deep you can put them into a joist. the trick is look before you drill :lol:

i would think the best would indeed be to take it straight to the cylinder if possible and have it run as a balanced hot and cold system. you should have a pressure reducing valve for the unvented sylinder already so it maybe an easy job to sort. speak to your installer for advice on your...

because they are old, the parts are starting to run out (heat exchangers) and with the expense of the rest of the work why leave an old boiler ona new system when a load more pipework MAY not be far off. Ive worked on a few of late that have had severe water leaks on the heat exchanger where...

just curious, why replace the rads and pipes and not a boiler thats at least 10 years old

for safetys sake just drain it down. its probly ok, but youll sleep better with it drained.