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Hi Simplyben Do you intend to keep the same switches after you have made your changes? It looks like metal from the photos. If so, you need to connect all the earth wires to the faceplate and not the backbox. Regards Huggybear.

Another brand is currently £25.20 at Toolstation: https://www.toolstation.com/bg-ip66-13a-rcd-switched-socket/p42694 I wouldn't spend £65.99 on an outside RCD socket personally, but it's your choice. Regards, Huggybear.

Hi Lewis, Were the two black wires that are together in your old light fitting like that already? If so, keep them together as they are. You should push them in further with no copper showing though. Put the three red wires together in the white chock block, again with no copper showing. The...

Hi Jon, Looks like everything will work correctly once you make the changes inside your fan. I have noticed that your isolator switch looks like it has a metal face in the photos. If so, you need to connect the earth wires into the earth connection on the switch face. The screw is missing, but...

Hi Bobbya82, You can use 1mm if you want, but 1.5mm is fine too. If you want the lights to operate from the same switch you can daisy chain them. Thanks, Huggybear.

Hi Dcarr, That's good to know it's all sorted. The metal part of the fitting would've become live once you turned on either the switch before or after the circuit depending which neutral was in the earth connection before. Huggybear.

Hi Dcarr From the photos you have connected one of the neutrals to the earth connection on your light fitting. Take that wire out and connect it in the same part of the chock block as the other black wire, then connect the group of earth wires into the earth wire for the fitting. Also the red...

Hi jchannon, None of the wires there are neutral that is why the blacks are sleeved with red sleeving. They are all live. In your new switch the single black wire at the top goes into the COM. The other pair of black wires go into L1 and the two reds go into L2. Nothing goes into the Loop...

Phoned up my local council and they said the fee is £200 to let them know about the work. I then have to pay again to get them certified. Seems like a right con. :roll: Looks like Brown and his cronies have found another way to rip off the public. Why do we have to pay for everything in this...

I live in a flat and have read on here and various websites that I should install a fire rated fitting to mantain the fire integrity of the plasterboard. The real ceiling is concrete, but I don't want to take chances in case I did have a fire and it burnt my neighbour's flat down. :wink:

Hi. There are no other downlighters on the same circuit. My ceilings are quite low, so above the bath they would be within Zone 1 while in the rest of the bathroom they would be within Zone 2. Does this make any difference?

Hello, I am thinking about installing fire rated 240V IP65 downlighters in my bathroom. I am a competent DIYer and have the knowledge to do this myself, but I would like to know do I need to get permission from my local council before I start this work? Thanks.

Socket will be on outside bathroom wall. (My fusebox isn't inside the bathroom by the way). Many thanks for the info.

I plan to install an extra socket near my bathroom door running as a spur from my fuse box (which is on the same wall). What distance should it be from my bath?

Wish I did go for the valve now. :evil: But I ain't taking that damn toilet apart again. Maybe when it needs it in another 15 years time again. :lol:

Hello Big-All. Yep there's plenty of water in there. I set it to the maximum possible before the water starts flowing down the overflow. Toilet is about 15 years old, so I'd imagine it must be a 9 litre flush.

Thanks for the advice. Fitted a new syphon, but seems to make no difference. :x Think I will put up with it, because it took me ages doing that job. The new rubber doughnut wouldn't fit between the cistern and bowl properly. Kept taking it on and off with no luck. In the end just had to put up...

I wonder if anyone could advise me. I need to replace my toilet fittings, because my toilet does not flush properly. The water has no forcefulness to it when I flush (i.e. comes out very slow) and therefore doesn't remove all the solid mater/toilet paper in the bowl the first time. I also...