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I don't see anything inherently wrong here. The machine can still be isolated, there's emergency switching arrangements, and the socket was replaced within hours. If need be you could have stood by the socket in case someone wanted to use it for isolating or emergency switching the machine in...

Unless there's cables hidden in insulation, you could very likely safely fit a 20A (yellow) fuse holder in there. That may stop the blowing. If it is a ring the assumption will be each leg can carry 20A anyway! From my experience with radials that will probably suffice. The other thing which...

@JohnW2, the way I read the OP is that the switch is mechanically resetting/latching fine, with or without load. It's the presence of voltage which is intermittent, and appeared to miraculously appear, or remain stable, when a load was presented at switch-on. Hence I think something on the...

"Loose" connection then, or whatever you want to call it; it's certainly not consistent. It may be low resistance when cold & at first but once a substantial current flows so will the smoke from the understairs cupboard.

I fear dodgy mechanism coupled with coincidence. You do not know it is "reset", it's sounding like a high resistance connection when closed waiting to cause a fire. Replace it.

I'm a DIYer. I used a long level, and didn't worry about painting anything.

Most alarm external sounders will alarm once the battery is depleted in the main box. So not a very clever theif. My alarm rings me, I couldn't afford the text box at the time.

We're talking about a plastic box which can be easily broken with a crowbar. Lock or not. In this case my view would be the only people you want to keep out are the pesky street kids or drugged-up chancers (alarm battery aside...). Hence my suggestion of a lock on the isolator itself.

Have you got a photo of the switch? It could be lockable in the on position. Meterman can read numbers, and people can't be mischievous.

Go for 1. If he'll dig your trench and make good for a reasonable total then there's no hassle with other trades (eg garden labourer).

3720kWh ish for a 3 bed semi with 1x 42" TV and fan oven/induction hob and a few LED outside lights, plus electric shower.

A dashboard is no longer fitted to the road to stop debris hitting the driver. A wing mirror is invariably never fitted on the wing. A plumber may have never worked with lead. A plumb line is often made with a laser. Plumbers' Merchant; Electrical Wholesalers; Motor Factors. WTF? Who last...

Those circuits are likely to be wired as a "ring", ie the cabling starts from the consumer unit, connects to each socket in turn, then returns to the consumer unit. So you should see 2 wires at the CU. The reason its allowed is historic: a scarcity and the price of copper after the war led...

It's very difficult to align the busbar legs to fit. I wouldn't recommend trying it.

@deadshort and @EFLImpudence, my experience is difference from what TLC say. Yes, the NHX is compatible (ish) but you need to use an additional forked busbar placed directly under the screw heads, as it's these which line up on the Wylex range, rather than the tunnels. See a creation below...

I'd put money on where the trap joins the old boss at the top of the photo. The strap-on is all part of a solvent weld job, points towards a good one so should be solid.

I would challenge any attempt to claim the warranty is void if they start being funny about maintenance clearances! If the installer's happy I'd crack on.

There is no noticeable effect.

There are 3 in a box. Full spec from the box: 5.5W GU10 220-240V 36 deg 650cd 2700k 30mA 50/60Hz 6kWh/1000h 350 lumen A+ energy rating Measured in bedroom, other lamps 50W halogen 1.5 meters away: 157 lux at floor (LED lamp) 70 lux at floor (halogen 50W lamp) I think mother in law will be...

The number on the product energy rating photo points to something a lot higher, but I'm about to find out.