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@Notch7 If that is the case I should assume there is nothing wrong with my plan?

Yes I can

Hi, I am thinking of installing a rafter tie that would support short inspection path above insulation. The path would be about 1.6m long and would be suspended on internal wall one side and on this new 2 x 6 rafter tie (4m span) on the other. I was considering raising the floor from ceiling...

So my mortar looks like the below. Would this premixed one match it roughly?

Ok I got all of the damaged bricks removed. Is Blue Circle Natural Hydraulic Lime 3.5 25kg a right product to use knowing it is a load bearing wall? If so how do you mix it with sharp sand - what ratio? How do you approach laying the bricks? Apologies if this is a silly question - it will be...

I've started taking bricks one by one from the bottom up. I have propped the steel with two 6 x 2 on left side and one 6 x 2 on the right side. Do you think I can take the whole lot of the damaged bricks which is until half the height of the bearing? I am not touching the damaged bricks further...

Thanks @cdbe for you post and drawing. Would that mean the frame is screwed onto the timber but not the beam itself correct? The gap between internal and external lintel is about 30mm. My original impression was that I would have to attach timber and bolt the doors to steel flange through...

If I were to leave the beam in current position how would you go about packing the 50mm gap under the steel? Would you bolt the frame to the steel through some wood packers? Any thoughts appreciated.

@cdbe Thank you a lot for your input. I am a fairly skilled DIYer and was briefly considering doing it but can I do it on my own?

How did you solve it in the end as I have the same problem?

What I meant by painting is cold galvanising it. It is Red Oxide yes so it is primed but if the beam is to be used on an external wall it apparently needs to be galvanised (not only Red Oxide) to meet the requirements.

I cannot paint it in the section where it has the brickwork installed in the web correct? I could still do the paitning on the lower flange and underside I suppose + the Storm Dry on the brickwork above - that's the best I can think of hmm... Thoughts?

I can only think the structural engineer specced it to add strength (and to cover his back) as otherwise I am not sure why (the doors to be installed are sliding doors). He pointed out the steel to be galvanised in his calcs and this has not been done by the builder. I've just been on a call...

Would you know if that steel could be not galvanised as one builder who was visiting for quote today pointed out the external steel has to be galvanised and this one is not (specs had galvanised steel). According to him the steel should be silver not red like on the photos above.

Hi @Notch7 , I have an external steel (there is already internal concrete lintel) I need to reposition (it was incorrectly installed) so that it sits inline with internal one (the photos above are before the incorrectly position steel was installed). The problem I am facing is the steel was...

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks cdbe. While it may work in some situations in ours it would draw attention even more and we just want a proper blend in finish as the rest of the house.

I took independent building control inspection from the council so it was not a private approved one from the builders themselves (they were not mates). I took all the steps to ensure no ****ups and I got one anyway.

Yeah hardly out of pocket but the builder knows he screwed big time and probably try to cut damages by offering me sth difficult to reject. On the other hand from the 2 quotes I received both were much higher than the work we paid so I may need to accept he was a substandard cheap service and...

We are still in the same place - really hard to find anyone to quote on fixing this and the door installation company say we should fix the beam first otherwise it would be difficult to install it correctly. We originally paid 1000+VAT and the builder has agreed to refund £960 in total. I...