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That may be so but its nice to be able to turn the hot water on before returning home. Any of Hive, Nest, Tado or Wiser would fit your needs. However Hive or Wiser are easier to install as their wiring is identical to your existing setup, you may even find either fit directly onto your existing...

My concern is that according to the ST699 installation PDF I linked above there should only be 4 cores connected (L, N, 3 and 8 ) but you had 6 instead (L, N, 3, 4, 6 and 7). Hence it seems to have been installed in a non-standard manner. Are you certain that the wire went into 7 rather than 8...

I am having problems reconciling the documented wiring connections and what your system has. given the links between terminals (L-5-6) and (3-7) that implies for the ST699 terminal 3 CH-ON is managed by programmer terminal 4 CH-OFF is live when central heating is in an off period terminal 6...

Ah, some progress. Found this link, the wiring for which seems to match what you had before. Take back my earlier suggestions. http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p4734641.pdf You have what they call BASIC SYSTEM 1 or 2. Gravity hot water, pumped CH and with/without room thermostat...

Depending on your system, apart from the power going to L & N, the other connections on the ST9400C backplate are.. If you have a S-Plan system with a single heating zone 3 for HW-On and 4 for CH-On, nothing to either 1 or 2. For a Y-Plan system, 1 HW-Off, 3 HW-On and 4 CH-On, nothing to 2...

I'd recommend you tidy the wires a bit. The number of loose strands is a disaster waiting to happen. Using "ST9400c Wiring 1.jpg" going left to right can you indicate which core went into which connection on the ST699 N - Blue-A L - Brown-B 1 - Brown-C 2 - Red-D 3 - Blue-E 4 - Blue-F I assume...

Can you please provide a picture of the ST9400 wiring. Do you also have any pictures of the prior ST699 wiring to compare. If you don't have a picture of the ST699 wiring can you carefully outline the connections on the ST699 (terminal, wire colour, etc) and to which terminals they were moved...

If you have a multi meter it's probably a good idea to check out the continuity across the various cables so that you can match the unknowns. That's probably something to do once the weather is slightly better and you have adequate time.

Sounds like it should be fairly straightforward to implement then. Hopefully a simple swap of Honeywell receiver. I think you may find Evo & Hive use a very similar (if not the same) mounting back plate.

That is an exceptionally neat installation. Good to see conduit rather than tacking cables to the wall. Hopefully the switched spur has one 240V "input" connection going to the boiler and a second up to the wiring centre. Unfortunately your orange line has obscured the view of the round...

you did. I need a lesson in reading.

Whilst I stand to be corrected, I would have expected the TP5000 to be permanently live independent of the TP9000. Otherwise the upstairs heating would depend on the downstairs being in an "on period". I thought the point of device like the TP5000 was combining a single channel programmer and...

I think you have a bit of a mix and match system. Not sure of the age of your house/heating system but in principle its very similar to my brothers house. The builders rather than installing a 3-channel programmer, put in a standard 2-channel programmer looking after hot water and the downstairs...

I think you should have one of these or similar https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303783266617 It may be in the same place as the hot water tank and wiring centre. Otherwise I wonder how the wireless part communicates

Currently you have a single channel controller which if it's permanently on is effectively bypassed. I guess that means your HW is also always on and just controlled by the tank thermostat. Your heating is then managed by the room stat. To swap that out for a 2-channel Hive and provide full...

If I understand correctly. At the moment you have a ST9100A managing the hot water schedule and a programmable roomstat handling the heating. You wish to replace both by a 2-channel Hive. As CBW indicates best to place for the Hive near the wiring centre as that makes any cabling much easier...

I suspect there are some opentherm projects out there if you search.

You should be able to test the Hive unit in complete isolation. Mount the hive back plate on a scrap of wood run a 3 core cable to L, N (and optionally E) , other end of cable into plug with 3A fuse. mount Hive on temporary setup. You do need to be careful to avoid exposing any live wires...

I think the last sale was around black Friday weekend. It may also go down in price for Amazon prime days. As for opentherm interface. Take a look at https://community.home-assistant.io/t/drayton-wiser-home-assistant-integration/80965 From what I can see formal documentation is lacking and...

All thermostats need some degree of hysteresis. If they exactly switched at the set value your heating would be switching on/off for a very small change in temperature. If your set value was 16C and the thermostat went off at say 16.1C and came back on at 15.9C that's not good. It's better if...