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If your intention is to bypass the roomstat perhaps the easiest is just to replace it's back plate with a terminal block. Place the blue and yellow/Green (Earth) into separate terminals to isolate them. Then place the red and yellow into a common terminal. You then effectively have set the...

Going right to left move the existing Salus cores to the Wiser backplate Blue (N) to Wiser N Brown (L) to Wiser L Existing Yellow linking L-to-COM goes between Wiser L & 1 Blue NO to Wiser 3

On a normal heating system the mains power supply which goes to the boiler, heating controls, pump, valves, etc would originate from a single source protected by a 3A fuse. The diagram is just saying the power source which goes to Wiser L & N needs to be protected by a 3A fuse. In your case you...

That does seem encouraging. looking at the pictures you have the standard Brown (L), Blue (N) and Yellow/Green (E) wires going into the terminal block which would provide your permanent 240V supply to power the Wiser Hub. Presumably the brown & black cores in your initial photos from Tuesday...

I am no electrician and would defer to someone more qualified to say if it's a good idea or not. If power can be provided safely in manner that does not compromise anything it is doable.

Unless you already have power behind the current thermostat I'd probably say you should take an alternate route. If power is available you would have five connections Live, Neutral & Earth plus the switching pair. Whilst the Hub itself is double insulated the back plate has a connection for a...

A Wiser single zone (i.e. combi) would support your requirement with the caveat that you need to provide a 240V supply to power the Hub itself. The existing pair of wires you have on your current thermostat would handle the temperature related switching. However it's highly unlikely you will...

Better to be safe than sorry. Seems like you are good to go.

you said "I recently purchased a Drayton Wiser multi-zone kit" but indicate "I'm wiring to a single zone heating system with a combi boiler". Can you confirm which kit you purchased as the wiring requirements for the 1-channel Wiser differ to the multi-channel versions. The details above from...

The wiring for either Hive or Wiser is fairly straightforward in your case. I would advise you to check the existing connections before making any purchase. It is important for your safety to ensure power to the SCR is isolated. If you switch off the spur powering boiler/SCR, you should see a...

If you don't have an existing programmer which it seems you don't I would not recommend the £20 ebay choice as that will not allow you to specify on/off times. Given the £80 cost for a digistat 3RF with limited programming, perhaps you should look at Hive, Wiser or similar although a bit more...

Do you also have a separate central heating programmer which could be built into the front of the boiler? I think the Digistat SCR is just a wireless thermostat & receiver. I assume you have asked the previous owners to return the thermostat as that would be the easiest bet. you could also...

Did you make any changes to the room thermostat as that may help diagnosing your problem. Looking a bit further I suspect you have fallen into the trap of swapping a programmer supporting HW & CH (ST9400) to a Hive Combi. The wiring requirements are different, the ST9400 had L & N (for power)...

That's good to hear

I think one Therma black was sleeved and the other not. The second sleeve was on the boiler switched live core. But you should check carefully. Note the existing black core going into wiring centre 5 & 6 should be safely terminated in a wago or similar and replaced by the core coming from Wiser...

so just to confirm the original wiring at the Therma was Brown into 1 (Live) Grey into 2 (Neutral) Black into (5) Have you traced back the cables to the wiring centre such that you know which connector each of the Therma's went to. If we number the wiring centre connections left to right, I...

What was in place before you started in terms of programmer and room stats? Do you have any photos of the original wiring? Which Wiser Hub have you purchased? I'm assuming as you mention channel 1 & 3 you have the triple channel model (HW + 2 x heating zones). Depending on your original setup...

see my updated reply. But your response is also OK.

From what I can see the PROG and STAT connections just work in series. If both are "closed" the heating is on, if either are "open" it's off. You can leave the existing room thermostat in place (& turned to max), the Wiser would the go into PROG. Or equally leave current timer in (& set to...

No that does not seem correct. The Wiser itself is powered via the N & L terminals. Any connections (bar N & L) will only go on terminals 1 & 3. Terminals 2 & 4 are unused. But check very carefully before making any connections. As Mister Banks indicated, model of boiler would be helpful. Can...