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You will however not be able to use the locating pegs and will have to position by measuring. As sugested it your other topic on the same subject. yeah its 620mm wide but on ones ive seen this size isnt mentioned... nearest is 618mm Yes this will be a problem but it can be overcome. I...

Why can't it just be balanced so it gets more flow to achieve say 10deg between flow and return. That way if the first rad is at say 60deg the last will be 50deg and all feel warm. I would have thought connecting all 3 at the top and bottom will help. PS I am no expert so at least blindfold me...

The male female joint you are talking about is called a masons mitre. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mason's_mitre This is the jig I bought. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83161/Hand-Tools/Carpenters-Jigs/Unika-Budget-Worktop-Jig# Here are the instructions for the jig I bought...

Yes this will be a problem but it can be overcome. I think I managed to use the smaller jig but was unable to use the locating dowels. Was a real pain. Not an easy job. The 30mm guide bush screws to router to fit in slot in jig. This should come with router. It needs to be a powerfull 1/2"...

Cheers MJN.

Lucky you, its Strictly come dancing on my telly. So I have offered to cook dinner while having a few Strongbows interluded with the odd Magners. oooo whats that burning smell........ :shock:

If he does this at 80degc might this not damage membrain/bladder in exp ves when it cools as the effective pressure in exp ves will increase, as the system pressure drops.

Remember the water in the system is at 80degc at the moment. Use caution if you are going to do anything tonight. Ideally the system should be cold to put air into exp ves. At least you have found the real problem instead of trying to bodge it. Good luck. And remember because the PRV has...

Bugger misterdubya beat me to it. But you will see we are both thinking along the same lines.

Unless all rads are open you are not seeing the true full expansion of the system, most of the water in the syatem is still cold. Also to get a 1 bar bressure increase with just 4 rads you have an expansion issue. Get all rads open at full temp and watch pressue and PRV discharge. Everything...

Never noticed that in 7 years, Must check :oops:

20 years ago I had an astra and the heeting would just be starting to get warm when I got to work (4 miles). All the cars I have had in the past 10 years or so are warm in less than a mile or 3 mins or so. I dont see it as an issue now. I think they are designed to warm up quicker now to meet...

Sounds like your expansion vessle is flat. Dont add sealer untill you have checked that this is not the case. 1 topup cold system to 1.5 bar. 2 turn on heating to high. 3 watch preasure rise. If it gets close to 3 bar check outside for water being ejected from safety valve. (Do not look into...

I think you need high voltage to initiate an arc but you can strike an arc with ELV and maintain it with high current (think electrode arc welding). So when the switch diconnects under load it is the same.

Thank you mbga9pgf I have read the link. While I understand you are correct, I still dont see how this is achievable in a naturaly ventilated modern house without opening a suitably large window in the winter. And who does that? My girlfriends Velux windows upstairs dont even have trickle vents.

Managed to wrestle mine into this configuration. Fitted a stand pipe for the washer because I was not convinced that I was not getting dishwater in to washing machine (during installation I emptied sink without washing machine hose connected. Very messy)

Quote mbga9pgf "Remember, your air mass inside the house swaps out every 45 mins-1 hour," How can this be possible in a modern house? Just intrested

Have you closed the grey fill valves again?