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Not sure there is a level line. I was just going to measure what comes out and put the same amount back in. My workshop guide does not show the diagram of the drain and fill locations, so i have to work that out. And yes, I have educated myself already on the need to check the fill valve/nut...

OK....next item...thought I'd get an opinion. Car is about 16 years old now and only 40k on the clock. Gearbox seems in good condition, but I am thinking it is probably worth refreshing the gearbox oil while I am doing everything else I have read that this can end up causing issues for high...

Some pictures! First Look A clean test After a good clean Underside of cover with old gasket Engine has 40k on the clock. Car started fine, and no issues on examination on just tickover

Hopefully it starts :oops:

OK, valve cover done! Went went pretty well I think. Just slightly awkward getting it back on and wondering it is seated correctly. I'm always paranoid about knocking some connection or damaging the ignition coil which is part of the valve cover. The old gasket was not as bad as I expected...

Maybe the posts I read were mis-describing and referring to the cylinder head or something. I thought it odd, but thought I better check after the guy in that video bought new ones.

After I posted that, I looked on a few forums that these bolts could be "stretch bolts"? A once torqued you can't re-use them type. Or is this not the case or misinformation?

Just reviving this a bit. One delay after another and I never got round to doing the valve cover. So picking up where I left off here, I was reviewing that video again. I noticed that he bought brand new bolts for replacing the cover. Just wanted to check if that was a standard/recommended...

Yeh, I have learned a lot looking into all this. Been very useful, thank you to all the responders. Measuring the voltage correctly was key. Taking the measurement from the charging port was a big red herring, which initially made me think the batteries were toast. Also, understanding that the...

I looked into this a bit more. i was curious as on the website for this scooter, the company quotes up to 20mile range, but with no other information as to what D0D for the battery. So after calling their tech department, I was informed that that figure pertains to doing a near 100% DoD on the...

So I did a bit of a follow-up, and did another 6 laps 2days later (without recharging), and the results were interesting: Initial voltage after recovering for 2 days was 12.78v Lap 1: 12.54 Lap 2: 12.5 Lap 3: 12.44 Lap 4: 12. 41 Lap5: 12.36 Lap 6: 12.29 So there was a steeper drop off for the...

Ok, I did a 3 mile test. I did 6 laps on a half mile circuit and did a reading on each lap: It wasn't all on the flat, but as it was a circuit it had equal uphill and downhill. Lap 1: 12.74 Lap 2: 12.72 Lap 3: 12.69 Lap 4: 12.65 Lap 5: 12.61 Lap 6: 12.61 After all these laps I did a voltage...

After a short recovery time: New Batteries 13.11v 13.16 Old 12.96v 12.97v So both recovering, old just a bit slower than new. But, do those readings suggest both batteries are performing well for deep cycle? Or should I be using another way to assess them?

OK...the results, and they are....interesting to say the least. I took the caddy covers off and measured voltages on each battery directly with the scooter moving. I had to hold it while moving but I think I got stable enough readings. I would like some opinions on initial interpretation...

I guess I can run the caddies without the lids. I would then see the voltage drop across each battery when used, and what, it should not drop below 12.4? Something like that?

Any thoughts of the best points to test these batteries, and to assess their condition. Is the voltage drop when the scooter moves due to the fact they are in series or something. Just trying to get my head round why the reading would drop to 0. The multimeter I am using is a decent one, so...

I located the only points I can see coming directly from the two battery caddies, there is a junction where two positive and two negatives meet a connection bridge where the rear of the scooter detaches (it's collapsible). I get a voltage reading when connecting the multimeter to one of the...

As a small follow-up from my earlier post, I finally managed to do a motorway only fuel check. It was a petrol station start and finish journey of 250miles. The journey unfortunately featured quite a few delays there and back, with a lot of slow crawl traffic at times. The trip computer came...

I took all those readings from the the three prong charging port on the scooter itself. In this case, it is situated on the neck of the tiller. In the days that have followed, from only a rough estimation, it seems these batteries have struggled to provide more than 5miles or so before starting...

OK, i bit the bullet and bought some new Yuasa's The scooter is not used enough to warrant lithium or all the additional considerations and costs that involves. Scooter is a TGA Zest Plus 4mph scooter. (Great scooter by the way) So i went for the 36ah AGM Yuasa I received them and did a...