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Yes, it would indeed work - the electrons don't really care whether the timer or thermostat comes first in a series circuit! :)

Are you sure the CH and HW aren't the wrong way round there? This manual for the Series 2 suggests it is, and that 123 are for HW and 456 for CH. Not if the diagram I've linked to matches your setup. Always a worry to see the CPC used as a switched live, but at least they marked it (not that...

Red (Live) -> 4 Blue (Neutral) -> 3 Yellow (Switched L) -> 2 No need for the bridge (assuming that's what you meant by the brown wire) as your new stat does it internally given the implication of the wiring schematic. Only were it to have a 'dry contact' (aka 'volt free') relay output like your...

Do many boiler PCBs support boundary scan? I was always under the impression (from the admittedly limited sample size I've seen) that most boiler PCBs are of rather crude design and lacking in even basic features such as input/output protection and wouldn't therefore expect much in the way of...

Whilst I've not had cause to use them myself, I do know several people who have used CET in Watford with no issues. An electrician I use knows (and rates) the owner and whilst that's hardly grounds for making recommendations to others on an Internet forum I personally wouldn't have reservations...

I use an ETI TN1 IR thermometer and find it excellent - very repeatable, accurate and of course instant response given the lack of heat transfer. Note two important aspects relating to their use though - they effectively read in a 1:1 'cone' and so for something narrow like a 15mm pipe you want...

To follow up on this post; I got in touch with Nest support and we spent a fair amount time going through diagnostics such as checking there aren't nearby heat sources or being in direct sunlight, questioning the accuracy of my thermometers etc - all what you'd expect and all fair enough. Their...

I've got a Nest 3rd Gen thermostat and have found it to be overreading by ~2C. Whilst I don't have any calibrated thermometers to check against I do have a variety (I didn't realise before now that I must have an unhealthy obsession with them!) which all agree to within 0.5C of each other so it...

Hmm... You've got me there! It's certainly a head scratcher (to me at least - to someone else more familiar it might be a straightforward one to explain). Will be following with interest!

Just thinking aloud until the pros turn up, whilst you've correlated the bubbling with the gas valve turning off that is also presumably the point of the boiler stat temperature being reached i.e. the hottest it gets. What temperature is this? Might it be boiling (perhaps just locally at the...

As well as pushfit stop ends being really useful, I also find rubber bungs to also be for low/zero pressure situations - ideal for temporarily plugging virtually anything to allow an amateur like me to work out what next to do! Particularly good for radiator tails.

I can really relate to this.. Barely a Christmas goes by when I don't start twiddling with something that turns out to have a latent fault with it. It invariably is also something with a high dependency for the time of year - heating, cooking etc. The devil makes work for idle hands to do and...

As I said; experienced!

I can't imagine a scenario whereby condensation could accumulate in such a quantity as to be mistaken for a ruptured diaphragm but I bow to your experience (I just have a expansion vessel - I don't work on them or anything related!) so if your method is the correct way then Mark should heed...

Yes, but given your post count I'm assuming you don't need it explaining to you! :-) Perhaps you could elaborate on your question/concern?

A punctured vessel diaphragm will manifest itself in water leaking out of the valve (schrader valve on the top). Press the stem in the middle - if water comes out then it is indeed punctured, if nothing comes out then the air has leaked out, if some air comes out then it might still need...

Yes, the heating guy Muggles recommended was also suggesting rewiring to so-called X-plan and as you say it does seem to be a term coined by Intergas. Note however that it's not just a rewire - it also requires replacing the normally-closed CH zone valve with a normally-open one. This is closed...

Sorry, yes, I had given it a go just in case my assumptions were wrong. It's a good idea about increasing the flow to clear it though - I recall doing similar with PRV that was once weeping.

Great - thanks. What I might do is buy a couple of stop ends ready and then see if the valve can be dismantled first to check for anything obvious. If not then I'll whip it out. I say 'whip' but I'm sure it'll be anything but being in the confines of the airing cupboard and won't quite seal on...

Thanks Mottie, but my issue isn't really how to correctly set the bypass value it is rather that it is passing even when on the highest setting despite there still being a free flowing path through the system. This short-circuit is raising the temperature of the return pipe and seemingly causing...