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You will most likely just end up with milky mark if you try this on a polished surface, The hot steam trick is used to get dents and scratches out of timber, as in bare wood, not wood that has a finish on.

You can only make this look better, it will never disappear completly, try these products for starters www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Mohawk+Finishing+Products&i=diy&search-type=ss&ref=bl_dp_s_web_0

As a French Polisher I can tell you touching out is an art form that after 30 years in the trade I am still perfecting. The success of touching something up depends on so many things, the type of wood, type of finish, the depth of the damage, grain structure, even where it is in relation to the...

I think it would look ridiculous with only some gaps filled. I think it will also look ridiculous due to some boards been cut for the rads. The are ways you could fill all the gaps using resin and sawdust from your sanding, and it would look better as well as preventing draughts, however it is...

Not sure why you would want to do this, theoretically is possible (if they are absolutely identical) but in practise getting it all lined up and slotted on….it’s probably a lot me trouble than it’s worth.

Personally I would just leave the bayonet unconnected provided your getting the pipe removed at some point.

They are a nightmare to do. I had a similar floor and was told by Lithofin to use this certain product to ‘strip’ the floor, then another product to ‘seal’ the floor. Even with a hired scrubber the cleaning job was just nasty, and a couple of hundred pounds and hours of sweet later the end...

My advice would be contact the manufactures of the render, I’m sure you could but they are the ones that know for sure, they will have most likely done testing and might recommend some sort of bonding agent before the render.

A photo would be useful

Just a weed barrier should do the trick

For any oil to work you need to take it back to bare wood, you also need to take it back to new (unbleached) wood, this can be difficult without going through the veneer, even then you might need to apply a stain to match the colour.

If your happy to remove plasterboard behind the TV and let in a piece of ply, then there is nothing stopping you from putting in extra noggings between the studs, this will give you more than 12mm of thickness to screw into which I think you need. Like you say once painted it wont be seen.

The reason the knots are seeping through is the original paint is water based, as is the sap. We never used to have this problem back in the day when we were all happy using oil based paints. You should be able to get away with using a blocker direly over the paint as long as it isn’t flaking or...

https://www.sealantsupplies.co.uk/products/bond-it-mega-stik-pu-adhesive-foam-750ml/

Just curious as to why your chemically stripping car wheels rather than just giving then a good sand up with 120 wet and dry, any chips can be feathered out then a couple of coats of good quality primer another flat down and your good to top coat.

https://creativepaints.co.uk/ https://www.symphonycoatings.co.uk/ Try these two companies, both deal in specialist paints for the wood / metal industry. Although to be honest I think it's a powder coating in which case you will not be able to recreate it without a lot of specialist equipment.

One thing that springs to mind is to dig around the current postcrete and add more? This is what I would do as the ground around the concrete is obviously too soft to support the post and concrete, the only other thing I can think of if the ground is really soft is digging down 18 inch or so...

Bin red is a shellac-based primer which is why it’s superb for drying on greasy substrates. Always use meths for cleaning brushes. Personaly I only use it for the above reason, I will then use an obliterating primer such as Johnstone joncryl primer undercoat.

I find it interesting that you say Bin is horrrible to use and everything goes in the bin afterwards, why is that?

Yes, the more sanding the flatter the end result. I would start around 60 grit work through to at least 180 if 240 grit.