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Can't open that link, I'm afraid.

My current intention is to cut out the existing isolation valves along with the connections to the washing machine and the garden tap and the pipework above, then install new inline compression valves for the WM and garden tap below, with new, flat faced isolation valves above to take the...

Will do, cheers. The wildlife in that corner of the kitchen cupboard won’t be happy about the oily smell, but sod em. I’ve also bought a key for use on the old fashioned outdoor stopcock in the pavement.

Couple of options to guard against that eventuality: a stopcock which is also under the sink, probably hasn’t been touched since Noah was a lad and will probably leak if interfered with, or the spindle out in the street. Either or both are likely to work.

Ah yes, there is a garden tap on the outside of that very wall, but its not working. Perhaps turned off via one of those valves. So with luck, I'm simply looking at a washing machine feed and a feed to a garden tap. All I need to do now is drive the 50 miles to my daughter's house and check for...

Providing those connections are not boiler related, I'm happy to disconnect and reconnect them myself. Is it feasible that a boiler might be supplied by a feed like the ones in the photos? I'm no expert but I'd hazard a guess that only hard pipe is allowed in a situation like that, although...

Nothing as posh as that, sadly.

There's no dishwasher: the only appliances being supplied by water in her kitchen are the offending tap and her washing machine.

Afternoon all My daughter moved into her current, late Victorian house 6 months ago. Amongst the numerous issues that need sorting out is a horrible old kitchen mixer tap, which I recently volunteered to replace. I'm OK with basic plumbing, but having purchased all the fittings I thought I'd...

Reckon it’s appropriate to provide an update. I bought the Screwfix scraper thingy and attached it to the drain rods, taping all the connections to make sure I didn’t lose anything, and pushed it into the gap. The scraper is much smaller than the gap’s width so it took multiple “drags” to remove...

Ah yes, that would make sense. I've moved on to something else since posting my OP, but the drain rod route will be my first port of call once I return to this task. Thanks all, once again.

Yes, true enough. I’ll see what transpires, once I can lay my hands on the rods.

Cracking idea, and I do in fact already possess a set of drain rods. Will give that a go.

Hi Martynrbell, no, it didn't solve the problem: not long term, anyhow. Because it was so badly damaged by the condensation I eventually ended up replacing the kitchen corner cupboard: a Hellish job because for reasons I won't go into, the new cupboard couldn't be built in situ, but had to be...

In principle an excellent idea, but its an asbestos roof so unlikely to take my weight.

Thanks for that. I did try blowing the rubbish with a leaf blower through a length of 68mm downpipe, but the downpipe was wider than the nozzle so the results were disappointing. However, that did alert me to the solution that you've just expanded on, using narrower pipe.

Interesting shout but sadly, the only "skinny person" who could fit in that gap is a skeleton.

Aye, that's probably do it.

Thanks both. I was hoping to avoid using a hosepipe because amongst the detritus between the garages there's a fair bit of soil, which is likely to splash up the walls. Not that it really matters, I guess, because I can rinse the walls and floor off with clean water afterwards. I might combine...

Looking for what will hopefully be a simple solution that just hasn't occurred to me. My neighbour and I have sectional concrete garages alongside each other, with a gap of about 10 inches between. Over the years leaf litter and other rubbish has accumulated between the garages to a depth of a...