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You misunderstand mate. There's a normal rad and the hw towel rail in there too. Believe me when I first saw it I was surprised too. Ted

Bend is better which you can do dry before you start all this. Ignore the drain off. Turn off system. Open one valve over a tray and wait for the water to stop. If it doesn't stop, you're into a full drain down. Chances are it will though. Definitely worth doing Ted

They are supplementary pal. Best way they work is in the summer. Hang the towel over it before you take a shower. When you get out the shower, nice warm towel. Like I say whole road like it here. Only place I've seen them mind. Ted

Don't change that boiler! One of the best boilers ever made. I'd look at flushing it and changing the pump and valves. Ted

You should be fine if you only have one open end at a time. I would do it like this: Isolate rad, drain and rehang Close any air vents on system Open one rad valve and release system pressure. You will then find out of the system will "hold". You'll probably get about a litre or so of water...

Got a whole road like that on my patch. Towel rails are very expensive and don't lady long. Ted

Misread fault code

Better go back in time to find a corgi guy pal

Not if you've got holes in the rads and a sludged system. Fit the isolater, the aav, leave the aav open. If you find it leaks swap it back out for a manual air vent. Your initial question was how to cure the noise.

I use the city plumbing ones. http://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/getProductDetails?productId=894403&hierarchyName=Altecnic%20System%20Controls&hierarchyType=CATEGORY&category=274004&attribute=-1&fromSearch=&searchArea=-1 If you fit an isolating valve below it, if it does leak you can easily swap it...

With that layout of that pipework and with the symptoms you've described I would still stand by replacing the manual vent with an aav. As a test, tomorrow morning when the noise is happening, operate the manual vent. If you get air then an aav will sort the noise. I would also look at replacig...

Pay peanuts......

http://m.screwfix.com/p/bottle-air-vent-15mm/34359 If you've got pin holed rads your better off replacing them to be honest. Leak sealer should really be a last resort for hidden/hard to get to leaks. Ted

It's the brass fitting at the end of the 15mm pipe which is t'd off the cylinder circuit. (In the first pic, at the very top) Why are you adding leak sealer? Ted

I'd swap out that manual air vent for an auto one first. Ted

Is it a combi or heat only boiler? Ted

The white part will pull out of the black part. As mentioned you can then offer up your new pan and see if you need to cut the black part down. The black part looks like it's made of clay to me. If you can avoid cutting it do. If you need to cut it go careful. Ted

Carefully cut it back to floor level and start again with a flexible pan connector. Can use a 90 or a straight depending on how far away the new pan is from the waste. Ted

I would say you down graded to a combi from the set up you had.