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If it's got plaster on it, you do have the room depth for overboarding. What I have done is strip to brick, make up a slurry of cement and SBR and paint it on - don't know how necessary this is, but it's easy to do - idea being it seals the brickwork, and then I've fixed plasterboard with foam...

yes. I have never used renovating plasters, so have no experience of how good they are. However, the idea of a breathable plaster solving a salt poisoned brick problem is difficult for me to understand. The water in the plaster when it is applied will take up some of the salts in the bricks...

Personally, I wouldn't. Phone number, yes. Email yes, contact form yes, clear indication of the area you are in and operate in yes, but exact address "here's a house full of tools", - maybe not. You can spend £££££ chasing SEO, but for tradespeople I would suggest making sure there is plenty...

This is my main SDS - the swappable chuck is really handy https://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/products/gbh-2-26-f-06112A4060

they look like maybe they are these incorrectly installed? https://assets.ctfassets.net/eta2vegx3yuv/4jnrUf5sshdGWaKoNdjB2d/d6d2190660fbf593771fa258bf0e75d6/IG4665B-SL8_and_PAN8-Mechanically_Fixed_Verge.pdf

@wessex101. agreed. Apologies, it was me that suggested it looked like a boundary dispute and took the thread off at a tangent.

Yes, I think it's safe to say that you can remove that mess that's been added, so it's flush with the rest of the wall. I expect you'll find the original opening/arch/lintel behind it.

+1 exactly as @^woody^ says. The link from the surveyors I posted above says exactly the same:-

I suspect that there is more to this. I wouldn't expect a party wall agreement which is aimed at controlling construction works getting involved in a boundary dispute or relevant to determining a boundary, and I suspect the focus on precise measurements is because there is a boundary dispute...

My method. If it looks like the PB has a void, rather than a stud, fill with adhesive foam to stabilise (bit denser than ordinary foam). Drill a deep hole and set a brass expanding anchor on a length of stud bar (just wind up with a couple of locknuts on it). It'll be going nowhere. Locate the...

Not much to add, except if you are going for an SDS drill, you might be better with a mid-range one around 2J impact. The big Titan (I have one) is a beast, and will drill through anything. It's downside is it is so powerful, that if the mortar is a weak lime rather than cement based, it will...

You won't actually see anything, but 99% it will be salt contamination. There's a good article here https://www.tracebasementsystems.co.uk/post/damp-chimney-breasts They suggest a separation membrane, but if you are taking the plaster off I have had good success overboarding with plasterboard...

I have some doors like that, and recently had to cut a cat flap in one. 120 years old and you could smell the resin in the pitch pine - absolutely solid. I suspect that door is very solid except for a bit of raggedness at the bottom. Personally, I would tidy that area up - perhaps by cutting...

Sounds like a load of unnecessary hassle. Find your local BA Components supplier, order the doors and side panels in any size colour finish you want. Their Bella and Zurfiz ranges are fully size customisable. The cost will most likely be under the vynil wrap cost even if it could be done.

A decent sliding mitre saw makes this sort of job easy. As above, 2-part mitre bond can be a game changer. For wide archs I usually slide a biscuit in which helps maintain alignment.

Having looked at Keter's installation instructions https://www.assets-pim.com/Media_1731575907397.pdf it looks like that shed doesn't really have a structural floor (unlike a wooden shed which usually has wooden bearers running lengthwise which can be supported on cross-bearers on pillars) as it...

Trying to stop a built up base on a slope made from loose hardcore spreading out is a challenge - it really needs some sort of retaining wall. If it was me, I would look to build brick/block/concrete pillars where it will support the shed level. You could also run timbers or concrete lintels...

All I can suggest is find your local glass and window supplier, write a spec for whatever you need and go to the trade counter and get a price. Most "trade" suppliers are also open to the public. 2 years ago I bought 4 windows for my garden room - 3 were about 1200 x 900 with an opener, the 4th...

Ask yourself what keeps you in London. My Son is there and I visit regularly, but you would have to pay me to live there. Have a look at West Lancs. Plenty of jobs around and 3 bed semis £150-200K

Probably a gas fire vent that's no longer needed. Yes, just open it up and use it.