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you're right - my bad...

If you were really trying to control the ventilation you would be applying the 3 degree rule..... but only those that know, know what that is...

Yes, you have to control ventilation in to a sealed chimney. That control is needed because of the condensation risk.....

When we sold our last house (2019) - same story. Loads of work DIYed by me. Not picked up on survey as all work was good, and no-one cared about the missing paperwork. Like @Ivor Windybottom , I read the regs, stick to them as closely as possible, and don't always worry about bits of paper. All...

I tend to fit 3 on all doors except ordinary internals. Equally or unequally spaced? I always put 2 towards the top and 1 at the bottom. Y spring chicken :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: still can't fathom any structural reason why a hinge would perform differently depending on which way up it was -...

Never heard that and can't really see any logic because with a normal hinge with 3 + 2 sections on the hinge there are only ever 2 bearing surfaces whichever way up you hang it. I too tend to put the logo the right way up....

Looks like, with that drop outside, a conventional drain is doable. Our understairs is a very similar size and works fine.

I agree if you can, but we don't have a section and it's difficult to envisage how that drainage is going to be routed. Rest bend directly under the toilet, another 90 bend coming through the house wall, and connecting underground to the existing soil. It's doable I'm sure, but at how much cost...

I have that router and it is totally unsuited to router table work. It's a 1/4" tool and doesn't have an inbuilt shaft lock. You have to detach the motor from the base, stick a lock-pin through, to release the cutter. No variable speed so can't use large diameter cutters safely. Nice little...

I have one and it is definitely a very useful tool. I bought an old-model corded senco brand new cheap off fleabay for a job. Had to search around for some spare tips for it but now have plenty. Brilliant tool for plasterboarding, flooring, etc. Used it loads since. The best thing is it saves...

Maybe not, but simplysips do kits for smaller buildings which might be useful to you. The advantage of SIPs is you get both the insulation and the structure in modules that go together like lego (well nearly :ROFLMAO: ) https://www.simplysips.co.uk/product-category/kits/

If it helps with inspiration, here's my fairly recent build https://community.screwfix.com/threads/garden-room.256842/

If the base is sound and solid, you could supplement it with easypads https://easypads.co.uk/ and then build a timber sub-frame supported by both. However, is it really sound? or is it just 2" of concrete on top of topsoil? - depends what you are going to build, but if it's substantial it needs...

Its 99% IMO going to be just condensation. Air behind furniture tends to not get replaced by ventilation. Water vapour in the room gradually migrates to the cooler surfaces because warm air has a higher vapour pressure than cooler air (on an outside wall) and the tendency is always to try and...

That sewer pipe from the toilet might be a challenge. For an understairs emergency loo why not use a macerator - we did

The sort of thing, when I only want a few m I make with hand planes - including my old wooden hollows and rounds, some of which were made at the back-end of the 1700's! Shape the main rebates (which can also be done with a power planer with a fence), and then take out the radiuses....

is I suspect the answer that 95% of people would give for a repair to a 3x3 tacked-on utility room roof.....

With LVT make sure you read the installation instructions from the manufacturer with regard to minimum temperature and acclimatisation. LVT expands when it warms up, and if you lay it cold, and the sun then beats down on it in the summer you risk it bubbling up.

You could possibly adapt the hinging to use a parliament hinge, but of course the knuckle end of the hinge will be visible and sticking out. However, it would allow the door to swing out and be clear of the skirting. Might need some creative thinking to fix it to an 18-22mm door.

That's a cracking job. Well done. I'm more joiner than cabinetmaker and I admire people who get great finishes on their creations