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I wonder who the Principal Designer is. Might be interesting when BC need the principal designer's sign-off before they'll issue a completion certificate....... We haven't had many threads yet on this topic, but I'm expecting we'll see a good few in the future...

As I answered on the other forum where you asked this, if it's just the one corner that is high, you have a slope in 2 different dimensions, and your chances of fixing a click-system engineered wood-plank floor over this successfully are somewhere between zero and nil. I've never tried, but...

Yes, of course, but if nothing else requires BC oversight, would you bother just to cut-in a new pan, or risk the "toilet police" knocking on the door.... you don't need to answer that :p

When I clad the hidden side of both my garden room and garage I used polyester painted steel sheets, which you can order cut to length (because they are a PITA to cut yourself). Screwed to battens with special screws they are cheap and very durable, and actually look nice too...

Not wanting to put a spanner in your works, but integral garages are controlled - the floor level difference is a requirement as are firedoors etc. If you were just plumbing for a washing machine and possibly a loo in the corner, and nothing else, then it's still a garage, but once you start...

Fake grass is the work of the devil

Problem is a concrete base doesn't drain. and wooden bearers stood on concrete can rot if water pools

I hope they do sign it off, but there's a bit of a storm brewing with BC as this thread suggests https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/45274-architect-won%E2%80%99t-sign-completion-notice-form/ It's the new Building Safety Act. the PD under CDM is not quite the same as PD under the BSA....

The plinth should be on clips, and the unit is probably on adjustable legs, so take out the drawers, remove plinth, remove fixings between cabinets and any upwards into the WT, wind the legs down and slide it out. Hopefully not too much adhesive has been used..... A sucker can help to remove...

Never made planters, but when I'm using concrete in fairly thin applications I have added stranded fibreglass on the recommendation of a builder. Have others any thoughts on this?

IMO you're over thinking this. Timber garden room? how much is it going to weigh. I reckon mine at 6.5 x 3.5 with a slate roof weighs somewhere in the order of about 12T. It's supported on 12 easypads rated at 2.5T which are bedded down on wacked MOT to the same clay layer, which is about 400mm...

It's not just the starting - Ethanol in E5 and E10 has a habit of degrading some materials, and the absence of it in alkylate fuels removes this problem.

For the small amount you use it's worth always using alkylate fuel in garden machinery - no need to drain - it doesn't go off https://aspenfuel.co.uk/

My setup is 3 wifi routers with 2 running in bridge mode all cabled together - just about all wifi routers can act as a bridge/switch if you turn DHCP off and give it a fixed IP, which is handy if you have some old ones knocking around. One is wifi 6 the others whatever the previous generation...

In that case it's in shear not tension and no worries - even a standard red plug not over tightened will work.

Have a look at silent gliss bendable tracks and poles. Lots of different types of brackets so could be wall mounted L brackets behind the pole. Expensive but very good quality. Measure at least 5 times for custom tracks before placing your order - don't get it wrong...

It's all rotten, and I suspect the ends of the slate battens might be similar. Not only that, but the "blockiness" of the rot suggest dry rot rather than wet rot. Either way, it's all got to come off and something new put in place. It really needs scaffolding, stripping and sorting with new...

Go to your local kitchen supplier and get a length, or even B&Q https://www.diy.com/departments/tydeman-matt-pebble-straight-cornice-l-2400mm-h-74mm/5063022533357_BQ.prd

I've never been a fan of any "plug" type fitting for plasterboard. When I've had to fix to PB as there's a void I can't avoid, then I tend to use toggle fixings https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-spring-toggles-5mm-x-50mm-20-pack/4257x Floating shelves however are a very tricky proposition...

No, it'll just be a 20cm bigger void behind the backpanel of the unit, or you could get some non-standard carcasses made up with extra depth