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Doesn't sound like a blockage then, going by what you've done. So it'll either be air locked (as said) or piped up wrong. Could you maybe draw a diagram or take pictures of what you've done and post it? Where are the vent and feed connected to the system in relation to the pump and boiler...

Did you not alter the cold feed and vent when you did the conversion? Usually you'd need to.

Looks like it could be a LST radiator (low surface temperature) google it.

Top and bottom? Or could I just seal up the pot too?

Alright guys, hope you can help. I've bricked up my own fire place opening and skimmed over it but the plaster just won't dry. Should I have put a vent in it? Does the chimney pot need sealing up? Cheers Andy

Could gas/services go within the kingspan? Or is that what you mean by subfloor? Confused!

I've had this exact problem before and Worcester are right, there is not way round it. This boiler will only work with the TR2.

I've never used these on central heating but I have seen it done before. everyone I've seen has leaked... under floors, ceilings etc. I'd strongly advise not fitting them. In fact, unless absolutely necessary wouldn't be fitting any kind of isolation valve. Just can't see the point.

You can change the PCB without being registered. You won't get any gas / combustion related advice as it's not a DIY job. As I'm sure you can understand a registered gas "fitter" won't advocate any non competent person do work that they could endanger anyone. Why not try a fixed price...

I think a flashing green light on these means pump flow switch hasn't made. It's the one on top of the diverter. Seeing as it works OK on hot water I'd say check the boiler for blockages.

Obviously.

I did use that steel capping and it does seem pretty useless! I think it'd easier to just reroute the cable into a safe zone.

Thanks for the capping info, I did think it looked a little flimsy. What product is best to use? I see what you mean about signing off other peoples work but I'd be happy for someone to connect up and test only.

Thanks for the pointers. Looks like I've gone a bit overkill with using a ring circuit then, but it's barely any more cost/work so why not ey! There is no thermal insulation so that's OK. The non-safe zone is two doubles at about chest height (for a TV etc... on a unit) and I've chased...

It kind of snowballed really. I fitted the back boxes and channels intending to get a sparky in but then I was ready for plastering so instead of waiting around I just ran the cable. It just meant I could get on with other things.

Not sure what exactly you mean by design criteria. I have a TN system It has bonding in place to gas and water pipes (10mm) Why wouldn't I select a ring final circuit? I've used 2.5mm T+E There isn't an MCB yet as it's not connected up, it will be a 32A. Cable is mostly in the...

Thanks! I'm getting a sparky in to do the lighting and mains smoke alarms so what do think my chances are of getting him to test and cert. the circuit I've fitted? ;) Bit cheeky I know but I was at that stage with the walls and plastering so I decided I may as well run the cable around...

Hi Guys. I'm currently renovating 2 bedrooms in my house and I'm installing 5 sockets in each room on one ring straight to/from the CU. It's almost done but I'd like to know if there are any tests I should be doing on the circuit before connecting it to the CU. I have a Fluke 116 and...

You need to make a note of what is on the display at the point when it is powered but not working. Also, post this in the plumbing forum.