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So you want to attach a ledger board to the spine wall on each side and sit the joists on hangers is that correct? You need to be careful with this arrangement with a single skin wall (assuming it is single skin) as this causes eccentricities and reduces the vertical load capacity of the wall...

Brain fart, obviously the wall panel will need checking due to the increased loads from floors. What is the wall built from; clay bricks, concrete block etc.?

You would need minimum 195mm deep C24 joists for a 4.2m span as per the NHBC span tables. I think putting in timber posts in to support the purlins and hiding them in a partition would be okay. The wall below will be fine as it's already taking the load, so you just need the posts designing.

Can you provide a sketch? You will probably get a better response if you post a drawing showing what you mean. Which direction does the spine wall go? Between the front and rear elevations where rose purlin struts land now or from gable to gable? What is proposed span of your joists?

The earth cables on the right of the picture are connected at the consumer unit, but have been disconnected from the incoming gas and water pipes. So would that indicate that there is a main earth to the property, provided by connection to that clamp and incomer sheathing, it's just that it's...

Just noticed something with my leccy in a 1957 bungalow. The gas and water bonds have been disconnected and cooked up in the corner of the room, with no obvious earth coming from the board back to the cut-out. Does this mean the property has no main earth? Cheers

The Designer needs to check the compressive strength of the masonry beneath the padstone, and the compressive strength of the mortar is a factor in determining the allowable compressive stress. The term bearing shear always confuses me and I see it all the time on here with regard to masonry...

The Engineer who designed the beam should have checked the masonry bearing and made assumptions about the existing mortar (the new mortar will be attributed the same strength within the design). A reasonable assumption for the existing construction would be an M4 (iii) mortar, with the masonry...

You don't need to adjust the mortar strength under the padstone from what is specified for the rest of the wall. The engineer who designed it takes into account the mortar strength when designing the masonry bearing.

I would think you'd probably need to prop up the sagging joist to bring it ~level, then drill and install the steel plate / bolt it up so when you release the prop, the load is shared properly.

Every day's a school day, Something like this?

Could you run two saw cuts down from the puddle to the end of the path, about 150 apart, break out the concrete and bed in a run of dished concrete channels.

Thanks for the fast reply Woody. So I'll lose the cavity. I was concerned that fixing studs into the single external skin would attract damp or blow out mortar during installation. But fixing top and sole only would solve that issue. When you say vDPM, do you mean damp proof course placed...

Hello All, I am planning to convert a detached, 1960's, brick-built (singe-skin with piers) garage with a pitched, tiled roof into a new kitchen-diner and connect it to the existing house with a nice walkway with plenty of glass. The garage is approximately 3.5x6.0m. I am planning to construct...