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Got a new boost solenoid off eBay and this has fixed it, no more smoke or fault codes and it drives nice and smooth like normal and it’s got its power back. Glow plug code still remains but I’ll have to test/replace the plugs as it isn’t starting quite as quick as I’d like but other than that...

Had a go tonight, turns out that Relay No. 2 is faulty and seemed to be stuck on making a ticking noise and draining the battery, I swapped it for Relay no.1 (heated rear window) and the fault has gone. So it’s back to ‘normal’ now, albeit with a non functioning heated rear windscreen. Still...

It’s a mk3, I haven’t looked for the clicking relay yet. Next time I’m over I’ll check

Mum has a 2006 Clio 1.5dci, been having a few issues, for a few months when driving it takes a while to accelerate, if you push it hard it will get there albeit with a cloud of brown/black smoke and then the electronic fault light on the dash will come on. I have cleaned the egr valve which was...

The service head is the ‘upside down’ fuse on the left hand side nearest the meter so the black and red tails are in the correct place it just looks odd! It’s not wrong it’s just like that to save crossing the incoming conductors over too tightly and that would be difficult to make a cutout off...

You’re probably going to need a service alteration/diversion, with a piece of cable put in to allow enough slack to get the right depth (450mm cover.) The local DNO would need to have a look and see what the options are

Am I right in thinking that it is a doorbell transformer? If it is then it would need disconnecting from wherever it’s fed from. Needs an electrician to check really

Therein lies the problem, if the fuse blew feeding the next door house and no one had access to it, you’d be without power until access can be given or be on some sort of temporary/generator. Also the supply being so old may of never had the earth connected in the T joint on the main. Again DNO...

Sounds like a very old method of getting power to the adjacent property, it’s very common in old installations, next door was only ever supplied with live and neutral and historically earthed via a rod or lead water main. There are a few options- 1- replace the three phase cutout with a new one...

My mum has a 2006 Renault Clio 1.5dci and recently it has developed a problem, it is slow to accelerate and if you put your foot down to get it go when it does it leaves a load of brown/black smoke behind. After a while of putting your foot down to get up hills a dashboard light will come on-...

I wouldn’t think the wattage is a problem, the bike would probably just not run for as long, I’d hazard a guess that a 50ah battery would give half hour of usage.

My garage is fed with a bit of 1.5mm SWA, about 15 meters worth, installed by persimmons! Works fine enough although you can notice a bit of volt drop with a lot on. Yours will be fine

^used one of these I drilled the 150mm hole for my cooker hood extractor with a 36v Bosch SDS drill, it worked ok but admittedly cut out halfway but the drill is very well used and 10 years old. I got there with a bit of persuasion and had to give the drill an hours rest. If I do it again I...

Don’t move it, it’s a really old cast iron troughed cutout and the lead cable sheath is liable to break when moved about. Plus a smart meter installer will have a panic attack because it isn’t all shiny an new

IIRC meters should be replaced every 20 years to maintain accurate readings so 2008 isn’t old for a meter. Theres plenty of much older meters about. You don’t have to accept a smart meter though

Hessian serving bitumen impregnated, it has a chalky appearance when new- I’m not sure why though, I guess to stop it sticking to itself when on the drum

The sheath itself doesn’t fail, it can fail at joints and terminations, the sweat can break leading to a high earth loop, or the lead can break due to damage. Ok some old systems the lead sheath isn’t even connected through Tee joints so there is no earth available in the entire street.

Don’t worry too much about it, the cable is the original steel tape armoured 2 core PILC service that dates back possibly nearly 100 years, the armours are rusty but you will find that the cable itself will be in as good condition as the day it went in. It doesn’t look pretty but it is still...

Seeing that you don’t know tells me that it isn’t something you should touch

I have a couple of those exact cutouts in my van, I keep them for spares but they aren’t going to anyone. The fuse pictured isn’t the correct type for that. Don’t mess about with it, you will lose believe me as without the correct expertise, PPE and tools/equipment it has a high chance of...