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Personally I’d prefer black but sellotape or parcel tape would be fine too

Lime hemp, not heard of that but it does sound good. Is it quite expensive?

It’s the first socket on the ring main as the consumer unit is literally below it fitted high level in the room below. I have fitted the socket with a surface back box back onto the wall and re terminated correctly. As for the messy hole, the house is in need of work so that’s hidden for now. It...

So I removed a built in sideboard/cupboard in the bedroom of mums Victorian house, it had a socket fitted inside and obviously that needed to be relocated. So this is what I found!

Hi, yes there are flints in the wall, looks like they built it from whatever fitted the gap! I have brushed it down since the photo was taken as there was also a lot of efflorescence on the wall. The battening is now all gone, it didn’t go much further and it did originally cover the entirety...

My mums house is circa 1883 and I am in the process of restoring it room by room, we have stripped off the old dry lining on the external solid wall that had been installed in the 60’s with a polythene vapour barrier against the bricks with battens for the plasterboard. The previous owner had...

The scenario I suspect is that the main has been faulty a while and wasn’t known about until the OP needed the three phase supply. As for two fuses blowing, yes that does happen, you will have red and yellow blown for example and on replacement of the red, the yellow comes up live due to the fault.

What could of happened is that a fault on the cable has caused two of the phases to weld together so that at the substation - R- fuse healthy, red core healthy Y- fuse blown, yellow core at red potential(because of fault) B- fuse healthy, blue core at blue potential. So all three cores are...

They may just refuse to do that as its not per procedure to supply 16mm tails on your side with a 100a fuse and are being strict on that. I know it seems stupid and petty but if they are anything like our lot then they may have got very tight on procedures being correctly followed even though it...

I can't speak for the DNO in Jersey as I don't know their regs/ procedures as they may differ ours (ssepd.) That cutout and tails uo to the meter are rated to provide 100a max load, the service cable will most likely be from the looks of it .0225 2c PILCSTA which is got for 100a. Not sure why...

You may find that this is a timber framed house with a brick skin. This is an expansion gap as others have said. There is also a 10mm ish expansion gap at the top of the brickwork under the soffit and also under the window sill. Sound insulation isn't the best but they have very good thermal...

Don't know really, wouldn't of thought they explode, rather that weaknesses get found and the terminals and fuse holder end up overheating and burning out

Yes, the very early cutouts used to be rewireable, usually with a 30 amp fuse wire sometimes larger. Horrid old beasts they are, there are actually a few substations with rewireable fuses in the LV feeder pillars too! Not personally seen one in the flesh though, only noticed them on plans

This setup looks to me as the original fuse holders in the main white service head were possibly re wireable and have been replaced by solid links that feed standard fuse holders (ME60 fuses) for each phase. The red and yellow phase fuseholders are each bussbarred on the incoming (bottom) side...

Link boxes basically are used to provide a way of being able to get the lv network fed from a different substation to enable maintainance work to be done - ie back feeding a substation via the LV network to enable the HV supply to be turned off for work to be carried out. A link box can be...

Heres some pics, yes i'm good with a multimeter

Pics of it, and the scruffy wiring

Hi, I've recently moved into a new house, I say new- it's 5 years old. The central heating system consists of a Ferroli Optimax HE PLUS 18S Boiler, a Drayton LP722 programmer, RM homeflow cylinder, room thermostat, hw tank thermostat. I think its a sealed system and is direct fed and an 'S' plan...

Sad to hear, he had a huge amount of knowledge and experience in his field of expertise :( RIP

Done this before- What I found that worked is that you have to get a small sharp knife and very carefully scrape off the lacquer coating off each individual strand for about 5mm or however long you want the solder to be. You should then be able to get the solder to stick :)