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Hi Guys, I'm not concerned about material specs as I know from my work experience that we used 316 for marine applications. My question is; can I use ordinary studding instead of the usual anchor bolts from Fischer and the like. Is there anything with the resin anchor bolts which make them a...

Don't think they will have the chemi anchors but yes, studding they should have. But 316 studding is readily available, my question is can studding be used instead of the recognise chemi anchors?

Ceramic tiles though durable is not going to make it any warmer, I think the opposite will apply. We have carpet in there at the moment and that fades. No issues with wet from people entering as there is a utility door at the side which goes to the garden. The patio doors lead on to a patio...

As I live close to the sea I've been looking for suitable M10 stainless anchors in 316 but can't find any. Can I use standard 316 studding instead?

I'd like to lay LVT in our sun room. It's previously been carpeted but as there is direct access to the garden it gets abused. The sun room is an old extension with no insulation in the concrete floor so I'm after the best insulated underlay. The floor does not appear to suffer from damp. I've...

Doesn't really need a sketch. We're having a raised patio to the rear of an extension we're having built. Because our garden slopes away the patio is around 850mm above the ground level therefore requiring a balustrade. I want to know if we build a raised flowerbed say 500mm high in front of the...

Were having an extension with a patio built at the rear of our property with planning already in place. Because the garden slopes away the height of the patio will be approx 850mm above ground level. This then requires a balustrade as it is more than a 600mm fall. So I'm thinking can I build a...

The Mafell has a depth setter which goes up to 50mm so it should be able to take 25mm MDF ok. Any recommendations on blade manufacturers?

I bought a Mafell track saw a couple of years ago. It's not had a great deal of use and then only on kitchen fitting and sheet cutting. I'm disappointed that the blade is already struggling on 25mm thick sheet. What's the best recommendation for a replacement blade?

Rang Tap Warehouse. Said they would contact supplier. Not heard from them since. Cut a rubber washer for the face and for belt and braces wrapped PTFE tape round the threads. Worked perfectly and no leaks.

It’s much smaller, just over 1/2” diameter.

No problems, direct hot water cylinder.

Not sure where it came from. No details on the box or on the very brief instructions and then it didn’t cover the fitting of the tap tails.

Just cut one but I'm concerned about whether it would tighten down enough to not allow the fitting to come loose. I forgot to say I did try some PTFE tape but I couldn't get it to stay on the fitting long enough to get to the tap tail. Just realised I was using gas tape which is much thicker so...

My daughter has bought one of these extending nozzle kitchen tap. Two tails are a challenge when cramped under the sink but add a third one!!! The tap came with a plastic fitting to screw into the third tail out of the bottom of the tap. The hose going to the extending nozzle has O rings and...

It fitted down pretty flat but I did decide to put a wipe of silicone on the corners.

Would have loved to have tried it but no local suppliers and the large tube was greatly more than I needed. Really wanted the smaller tube.

The sink I'm fitting has a rolled edge and a foam gasket behind. Will this be enough to seal or should I add a bead of silicon? On other sinks I've fitted they have flat edges so no gasket and when I've dry fitted there is usually gaps especially when the fixings are applied. Why do they only...

All done. Used the Colorfill, made up suitable wedges to hold the joint tight in the right position and then tightened up the dogbones. The Colorfill went off very quickly and was even a sod to clean off the joint. I would not recommend it.

I have a tricky worktop corner joint to assemble. It's an L shaped worktop with walls at each end so I have very little room to get the adhesive on. Then it's carefully lowering the section into place, getting it all line up and level and then do up the dogbones. They're not easy to get at...