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I get the feeling that baths aren't made to as high a spec these days as they should be. The surface not flat and/or the holes too big. I guess the latter allows for variations in tap options. As above, undo from below, hopefully flexi-pipes have been used. Ensure black seal has been used...

Obvs you're going to replace the whole lot now, working or not. That experience was just a warning shot. Next time you / she won't be able to get in at all and it'll be much greater expense to fix.

If it is a smooth plaster finish then you'll be able to rectify pretty successfully and pretty easily. If it is artex finish then it is still possible but may be harder to blend in the finish. I'd do it if it were me. But then I'm ADHD about these sort of things and would hate to sell someone a...

It would appear that they have assumed all the openings to be the same size and when found to not be and have added the extra to the frame (incorrect solution imo). What they should have done is taken the larger width door available and trimmed both edges down to keep symmetrical. If too much...

Any thoughts on what the staining could be on the pillars shown herein the pics? It's the inside of the cathedral local to me. I did think damp but it seems rather high. Alternatively, peoples mucky hands but again, very high. I don't think it's just cleaning part-finished from top to bottom.

I wouldn't worry about it if it is under the shelves, you won't see it anyway. If you're really concerned then fill with decorator's caulk. It's flexible. It's the expansion and contraction of the wooden shelves that have caused the cracking and the plaster to break away.

You'll do fine. Just take your time. I'll add though, remember to dampen the newly exposed plaster beneath before you start adding new filler. Otherwise it will suck all of the moisture from the filler and it won't stick. When re-painting, I'd use a small fluffy roller for something of that...

What do you mean by PI?

What are you wanting in the hole? To leave it open as it is, put a grate inside etc or, open but boarded to be clean and tidy? The surround, you can buy as wood or mdf and they affix to the wall with rawl-plugs and screws. There's no weight to them at all. Whatever you do, if you're removing the...

Just push the ball-cock down, that'll at least tell you if it is live. It's probably / possibly a feed for the rads etc.

Well I did not know that

I had one that used the phone screen but was sh!te so sent it back. It kept losing connection. I've now got one from Toolstation, has it's own screen and has been really successful. You'll struggle to bend it around any tight corners though. Remember it is fibre-optics and don't want to break it.

How about as Harry above says, you lower the fence, adjust your lights and go around to them with a bottle of plonk and an apology, "can we start over?". It must be awfully draining not getting on with neighbours. A lot is down to miscommunication. Just keep talking. Remember, it takes two to tango.

I'd consider it. Profits are made where others shy away from.

Spam! Who the f*ck reads the sun these days?

From my late Pa; "Find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day again". And one from my (very practical) twenty-something son; "it ain't a bodge if it works" :LOL:

I fitted a shower into a non-square, non-vertical corner. 45mm down to about 15mm. Had to use packers of differing thicknesses for the full tray length and full shower height, using multiple boards. I then tiled. It was a ball-ache but totally doable and came out fine. Then did the same for the...

My wife's quite good at 'out of the box' ideas. She has suggested, rather than blank the larger gap off, to make a feature of it. Perhaps an old-fashioned style spice rack? Or, with your up-stand in place, affix a base in the gap and use as a means of keeping a cook-book open? Fit open shelves...

Don't use those quadrant strips, they're awful imo.

Easy, you measure in from the edge and up from the floor, it only needs to be approximate. Then, blade drill to approx centre of socket then multi-tool out from that.