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I'd ring the DNO (power transmission company) first as they'll likely attend fairly quickly and you won't be charged. Just report a loss of supply and let them investigate, if it turns out the meter is faulty then you can contact your supplier.

I've been thinking about this post and whilst I have nothing new to add I have been wondering if the earth cable pictured actually does terminate into the head or is it just resting there for the photo. As someone suggested previously is the customer trying to get out of paying the bill, a very...

Yeah I'm not convinced by that photo either, I'd like to see a wider shot of the associated equipment and consumer unit. I'd be very, very surprised if someone who's been in the trade for 25 years would make that mistake. I'm not saying they didn't I'm just saying it's very unlikely in my opinion.

It's possible that their friend is seeing the main earth connected to the PME terminal on the suppliers cut-out and asumming it's a 'live' connection. As 'oldbutnotdead' stated we need pics to confirm. Whilst I've seen some awful work completed by so called qualified electricians I am yet to see...

I agree with ericmark, plug-in smart sockets are a much better solution than a fixed socket outlet. If you ever decide to move the room around the smart socket just moves with the appliance it controls, if you move home you just take them with you and if one fails (happens more often than you'd...

Unscrew the sockets from the wall directly below where you have been working, with the power off if you've managed to restore it since. Have a look behind them and if any of the cables go up directly below where you have drilled or put any screws into studs then it's safe to assume you've hit a...

Extend the cable using through crimps, stagger them so you can use heat shrink to cover the connection which will keep it thin enough to pass through the space that you have. You'll need to buy a proper ratchet crimp tool if you don't have one or borrow one from someone who does.

Really need more info and some pictures before we can say if you've been 'had' or not in my opinion. Can you post a picture of your consumer unit in the house along with the incoming supply/meter, and a picture of the shed consumer unit? We need to determine the earthing type at the supply...

Totally agree with you, they are compliant yet you can argue that they’re not! It’s a complete mine field. I tend to use/suggest them as you don’t need to open the consumer unit to fit them and they are better than a gaping hole at least.

I’ve used these for plugging open holes in consumer units, they’re a really tight fit so no chance of them coming out. https://www.alertelectrical.com/wiska-quixx-kit-membrane-grommet-emf-f-kit.html

Can you elaborate on this statement please?

Oh dear god what an absolute mess, I don’t know how people who do this standard of work in other people’s homes can sleep at night. Sorry to say it all needs ripping out and starting again, this time by an actual electrician who’s capable of doing the job properly! One must exist in your area o_O

That’s a Robus Commodore LED under cabinet kitchen light. Yes they do need to be earthed, whoever installed it was not an electrician, those connections can’t be left exposed on the top of the cabinet either. This is a link to the light fitting...

Sadly becoming all too common and they probably sleep better at night than I do. Shame on them!

This sounds like a lot of time, effort and money just because your son is leaving the lights on occasionally. I appreciate it’s your home and your choice but it seems the opportunity to install wi-fi lighting control discreetly during your recent refurbishment has been missed and adding it now...

Why downlights? I’d use some decent LED tape in aluminium profile, you could surface fix it just behind the drop of the fascia board and you’d only need to fish a cable in at the centre point of the two runs (bottom right of the apex/gable). Much nicer even distribution of the light and if you...

RF's suggestion of a controller at the CU end would probably be the cheapest solution, I missed the part about it being on it's own circuit.

Hmmm in the meter cupboard the coloured cable ties on the grey feed cables to the new CU/Isolator are the wrong way round, hopefully it's just the cable cable ties otherwise the installation polarity will be incorrect, this needs to be checked. Also the cover on the left henley block appears to...

You could change the fused switch back to a standard one and fit a smart element to the towel rail, I just found this one but others are probably available...

As has already been said find another electrician, the wiring behind both switches is a mess, how anyone can walk away from a job and leave things like that is beyond me, they clearly aren't capable of tightening the screws on the cables properly either. Those two black cables that have come out...