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That looks like it took some effort to expose! That does look like a proper Y resin joint compared to the butchered one you found serving the shed. It’s probably failing though and water has found its way inside and stared to corrode the connections or when it was connected together the joint...

BG stuff is utter rubbish so there's your answer, I've had so many issues with their RCBO's/RCD's which passed all tests fine but would constantly random trip for no reason, i even had to rip out and replace a BG full RCBO board that I had installed that was driving the client insane. Their tech...

Let us know how you get on, we all love an ending to the story even if it’s not a good one. By all means dig by the tree but I suspect the issue lies at the splice to the garage and if you want to restore power to the shed fixing that splice will be your only solution. If you’re lucky you may be...

I think the issue is more likely at the garage end where the cable to the garage has been spliced into to supply the former pump house, or does the supply cable for the pump house originate from within the garage (fed from garage consumer unit)? Reading your previous post its a little unclear...

yes I have, I don’t know if I should laugh or cry when I see some of the stuff he’s done :eek:

I've been subscribed to his channel for a good while now but recently his way of working is bizarre! I'm glad it wasn't just me who thought this 'true radial' was utter nonsense and the finished job looked awful, total waste of external socket inside the garage (that's all he had - is it just me...

From my experience I've had zero failures from the TCP and LEDlite (LEDlite are TLC own brand) LED lamps with Philips a close second, the Dial brand from B&Q are decent too. The poorest performers for me are Osram, every lamp of theirs I've bought has failed prematurely. My go to lamps are...

Hmm hadn't even crossed my mind about the max temp setting on a heating stat, pretty obvious when you think about it! I have to agree with flameport and indeed have chosen option 1 myself numerous times, the extra cost is quickly forgotten when you have a working and reliable solution.

Could you use a regular wireless central heating room stat, open up the room stat, de-solder the sensor from the board and connect and external one on a wire that you could strap against the tank, set your desired temp and then it will call the boiler when required? I’m no electronics expert but...

No problem at all with using the fused switch as the light switch, that's how my under stairs light is wired. Just take a 2.5mm T&E from the junction box to the fused switch and then 1mm T&E to the light, pop in a 5 amp fuse and job done. Being on the ring main isn't a bad idea as if your lights...

As terryplumb said there's a few ways you can do this, I would start by finding out if that junction box is live and what circuit feeds it, if from one of the lighting circuits then happy days just tap off that to a light with integrated PIR, if its on one of the power circuits then swap the JB...

Even simpler fix for this shown in David Saver's most recent youtube video, just put a neon indicator connected across the lamp terminals and stray voltage will be absorbed by the neon. If you have a room of spots you would only need one, genius idea!

Probably because underground cables are less prone to damage from high winds, fallen trees, vandalism, high vehicles etc. It's the preferred way of doing things now so it seems even in my area, it also looks better too with less unsightly overhead cabling. Also if a vehicle collided with a...

@FrodoOne - Why do you keep quoting stuff from Australia, this forum applies to the UK? I don't disagree with your opinion but there is no requirement here to add RCD protection to existing installations or circuits without it, unless work is carried out on them at which point that...