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Wot blightyman said, above. The only long term solution is to remove the cause of the condensation mould.

Why do you want a lacquered effect on your ceiling? Sounds bizarre. I spend a lot of time persuading old ladies NOT to have glossy ceilings. So Old Folks Home!

Yes, it can. The plasterer will probably PVA it first though.

No, corbels are different. They're (apparently) chunks of moulded plaster which project out of coving. The thing I'm talking about is a recess - it curves inwards to form a concave C shape within the cornice/coving - often at the join between ceiling and wall.

All that makes perfect sense - thanks, folks. While we are on the subject of bits of architecture, does anyone know the correct name for the rounded, recessed/concave part of elaborate coving, which would be a C shape in cross section? It's often found in Victorian or Georgian plaster coving...

...until they decide that actually, they don't like what they chose, after all...

Between us, customer and I have decided that what would look best would be: wallpaper on feature wall up to picture rail, cream on other three walls also up to picture rails, ceiling and area between ceiling a picture rails white. Woodwork in cream.

Yes you would have to gloss/ silk the whole wall first then apply the tape then apply matt to the diamonds in between the tape, then remove the tape. Sadly though you may end up with the sensation that you are in a chicken coop.

Thanks for all the input so far! The wall paper having just arrived, I discover that it is not (as customer thought) a cranberry coloured pattern on a gardenia background, but on a whitey-cream one! So I am going to suggest whitey-cream on 3 walls and ceilings then at least it is one less...

Does anyone have a view on whether wallpaper on a feature wall with a picture rail should continue above the picture rail to the ceiling, or stop at the picture rail (the section above being painted the same as the rest of the walls)? 1930s house, bedroom with normal height ceiling, picture...

I'd normally use an oil based undercoat and two coats of oil based eggshell (preferably Little Greene or Dulux) for furniture as it is tough and durable, but if you want a white/cream and 100% guarantee it won't yellow, you need to use a waterbased acrylic eggshell or satinwood. Little Greene...

Painting them when laid flat (as opposed to standing/hanging upright) is definitely preferable, but I think the advice above was about painting in the same direction as the grain of the wood (as opposed to against it, or at right angles to it).

Please settle an argument. Is there any reason why a wall papered with a textured wallpaper and painted (some time ago) with vinyl silk emulsion should not be refreshed by being repainted with more silk vinyl emulsion? Clearly the original sheen cannot be sanded off (as you would want to do...

OP, please be clear about something before you start mouthing off. In 2010 EU regulations forced paint manufacturers to reduce VOCs in products (volatile organic compounds) because those compounds are environmentally damaging and they caused high rates of throat cancer in decorators. I for...

Yes, it will,(although the Zinsser Permawhite is very good too), but in the end you have to sort out the ventilation in the bathroom. Install an industrial strength extractor fan and open the window after anyone has a bath or shower.

I agree.

I'm not sure that it's possible to be sure about that, from the photo. The thick layer could be badly applied filler, bad plastering, polystyrene thermal lining or even very thick paint as OP says.

In your shoes my preferred option would be to have the walls re-skimmed. Then you can paint them or paper them as you please. If the budget won't stretch to that, then Wallrock Fibreliner gives an excellent finish and very forgiving of rough walls. However, the good news is that you have...

My OH (who is a chemist) tells me that the salt is being pushed out by water still in the walls and until they dry out, there is not much you can do (other than dry line the walls, which presumably you don't want to do, in a cottage).

DON'T use PVA. Sand down, then seal the surface with Zinsser Bullseye or Bin. Then apply two coats of a suitable emulsion. I have found Dulux bathroom paint to be very disappointing. Ditto their 'Kitchen paint'. By far the best paint for condensation/mould-prone ceilings is Zinsser...