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That will take forever, require some serious downward pressure, get extraordinarily hot and scorch your workpiece. If the hole doesn't need to be perfectly neat, I'd just drill it out with a 14mm HSS bit, then a 16, 18 and then 20. Depends if you have HSS bits in these "blacksmith" sizes...

That set? No... But, you do need both. A decent PH2 and PZ2 'normal' screwdriver(i.e. not just a bit to put in a drill) are a must IMHO. Recognising the difference and using the correct one is even more important. Professionally, I prefer having different brands of each type of screwdriver in...

They list them as "cross point" without saying if they are Phillips or Pozidriv. edit: On zooming in , they are Phillips, the picture didn't load at all first time.

20 QUID!!! You know it's just cheap tat from China? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184671413645 I've got one in a drawer somewhere, never use it. It can't transfer any kind of meaningful torque it just wants to twist up on itself.

You are very likely to find the exact same setup as in this thread... https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/ceiling-has-3-sets-of-wires-for-lighting.567820/ Also, be warned, these wires are LIVE, even when the switch is off.

You've lost me there woody! Why wouldn't the rear align? To join at 45°, you just cut them at 22½° :confused:

Up at ceiling level you have 150mm to play with. Going round the walls at socket height, the prescribed zone the cable can be in is the height of the socket, which is 87mm. Why so many cables? If you use a horizontal chase at socket height, any extra cables which are just passing by/through...

For a horizontal chase, it's one sixth. Which is why it's not always do-able. OP, You can run cables round the top 150mm of the wall and drop down to accessories. If you're re-wiring, doesn't the ceiling need to come down in places anyway for lighting cables(and/or moving/adding lights)?

When trolley jacks go up, they need to move forward on their wheels, which is fine on a smooth garage floor or polished concrete workshop floor. On lumpy tarmac in a lay-by however, or gravel, block paving lay-by, etc, i.e. exactly the type of place you'll need to change a flat, a trolley jack...

Make a zero-clearance sacrificial fence maybe? That is, as long as all your cuts are 90°, or it won't be zero clearance any more.

B and Q still do them... https://www.diy.com/departments/b-q-grey-5mm-cable-clips-pack-of-100/178098_BQ.prd Schneider bought out Tower, and have stopped making them. (says discontinued) https://www.se.com/uk/en/product/55PP1/tower---clip-plug-for-cable-clip-and-nail---grey/

Yes. Another thing to consider is the inrush current. Your power supply may well prevent the arc from striking with its overload protection. For example, this ballast... http://www.popnow-hid.com/products/12V-35W-DC-mini-thick-HID-BALLAST-products-2-40.html ...quotes a max inrush current of 15...

You need a ballast between them to create the high voltage needed to strike the arc, then control the arc and voltage after that. Just connecting those lamps to a 12v supply will produce nothing. Buy some kind of HID conversion kit instead which will have the right ballasts for the lamps it...

See page 7, right hand side... https://worldradiohistory.com/UK/Electronics-Today-UK/80s/Electronics-Today-1981-03.pdf