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The "blue long thing" must already exist somewhere. Perhaps on top of the cabinet. G4 bulbs run on 12v, so there must be a transformer/driver somewhere that converts that from mains 240v down to 12v for the lights. You will need to swap that out for one thats compatible with LED's

I'm not sure what exactly your trying to achieve here, but these two things arent compatible. You would either use the IP68 glands, and have the exposed cable running between the units, or you would use conduits/bushes instead, though potentially those arent going to give you the IP rating you...

You get pluggable PCB terminal strip, like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20pcs-5-08mm-Pitch-4Pin-Plug-in-Screw-PCB-Terminal-Block-Connector-OIUK/153919933917?hash=item23d657cddd:g:IN8AAOSwcmZa0XOC It looks like something along those lines, but you'd maybe need to find the right brand for it...

I've had some Logic+ switches which had a much smaller switch module and those were horrible, so bad infact that the slight pull from the T&E in the box would make the rocker sit squint. I avoid that style now. The ones i've bought recently though all have the full size "grid style" module instead.

Last edited by a moderator: Today at 7:58 AM Perhaps it was edited out for some reason?

with the power turned OFF at the main switch, use the Ohms setting and test between brown and blue on each cable: Before you take any readings, note what the meter shows when connected to nothing, and then touch the probes together and note what it shows when measuring a close circuit/dead...

One of the "neutrals" is not a neutral. Its a switched live. Thus the various points above saying you need to identify the switch drop. This diagram from JW's site may help: https://www.flameport.com/electric/lighting_circuits/ceiling_rose_newcolours.png

1.5 is bigger than required but you probably wont get anything smaller in NYY-J. Depending on the routing a flexible cable like 3183P might be better. as for the PIR, you have all the connections you need available at the light shown to add in a PIR in any configuration. It'd mostly just be...

Read the thread above regarding your three cables. One of the cables is the switch drop, the other two form the lighting ring. So no, you dont just join all the wires up. You need to identify the switch drop, hopefully it has red/brown tape on the black/blue wire.

yep, the grey becomes your new live, and you can use the neutral and earth from the existing light. You'll probably want something like NYY-J cable. SWA is very likely overkill and pretty awkward to work with. Assuming ofcourse its all surface clipped etc. And yes, just three core, Live...

I guess there are rules about breaching fire compartments, and i would guess that the new rules about the CU's being "non-combustable" feeds into a general misconception that making holes in the CU somehow needs to be "dealt with" from a fire containment POV.

Nest E (the cheaper white one) uses a battery powered module designed to replace the "traditional" 2 wire room stat, then the actual display/sensor is wireless with USB power. The standard Nest however uses a "heat link" module which requires L/N as well as whatever switching signals are required.

While what you say is correct, my experience with trades is that actually, a huge number of them have not invested time and money into training and are incompetent. Theres clearly a few sparks on here that are very enthusiastic and i would imagine will do a good job. But despite routinely...

He didnt ask if it was notifiable, he asked about sealing up holes in his CU.

And if the electrician bodges it up? Some guys like clagging intumescent mastic everywhere, but it doesnt actually seem to be a requirement, and makes it pretty horrible if you ever need to do any further work on the board. IP4X top and IP2X elsewhere is what you need to meet. A hole in the...

At my old place, they refused to fit a smart gas meter as it was on the other side of the house to the electric one. Maybe 7-8m direct line, but diagonally thru the building, past 3-4 solid walls... Didnt even try, just said it was too far and only fitted the electric one. Not sure why you...

So he does, i missed the "bush and nut" part!

True, but T&E outside is a bit... Janky?

Is the isolator outside? If so, dont use T&E, use NYY-J or similar. That way you can properly gland it into the existing box.

Wishful thinking. Unfortunately most trades i've dealt with do things the cheapest and easiest way possible to maximise their profit, and you end up with a **** result. OP is going about things the right way, ensuring a solid spec sorted out up front. Also means if hes getting quotes, hes...