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I've never regretted paying for good plastering work!

If your putting large heavy tiles up, I would use a good powdered tile adhesive and not foam if it was me. I also ran a bead of ct1 or similar along the edge of each board, like mortar in a wall, to aid with waterproofness and help prevent movement.

As above, I did Marmox 40mm. It's not quite as good as PIR insulation, but much better than nothing. Dot and dabbed to wall with tile adhesive, then fixings drilled through dabs (as per installation instructions) Easy to cut with an old saw. I'd repipe rather than foaming, but it's a lot more...

If you are replacing like for like in terms of area, you're free to use what ever you want. If you are extending it by more than 5sqm then it needs to be suds compliant

I'd get yourself on chatGPT, and upload your local planning policies and ask it.

You need a protected exit from the upper floors to an external door, so between the bottom of your stairs, and typically your front door, any doorways into the rest of the house should be firedoors. Doors between downstairs rooms that don't open into this area can be normal doors How to get...

Yes.

I had similar, and used some aluminium beading, which I think looks a bit better than white PVC and is dead easy to clean.

I'd also recommend a hanging rail- I used one to great effect for exactly this scenario in my kitchen. I'd did mean a trip to IKEA, as it was the easiest place to source one, but they are available elsewhere (and works with non IKEA kitchens) Allows you to use lots of fixings

I missed this epic tale first time round. Exactly the kind of stories I enjoy reading on here!

They are pretty good answers (if they are true...), but I was under the impression that you used Type 3 under permeable top layers, not type 1, as type 1 isn't classed as permeable Not an expert though!

Have a read of the paving expert website. It explains what all the BS standards are in relation to subbase etc. It's accused of being a bit over the top for somethings, but with a driveway, you want it right first time, otherwise you'll end up with ruts. One thing to remember, a permeable...

If you have a lintel already, and you're replacing a pvc window with a door the same width, then you can reuse the lintel. It's just a case of removing the brick below the window following the same line down as the window opening. It's a relatively simple job, the main cost will be the door...

Celetox between rafters, taped, then celotex over the rafters, taped, is a fairly standard way of insulating roofs. They key is to leave a 50mm air gap between the tiles and the insulation that is in-between the rafters. The foil on the celotex and the tape (lots of foil tape!) acts as a...

It cost me about £800 10 years ago, so the price is ok. When I had it done, he managed to dig the hole next to pavement, and could reach the meter connection and do the join. He didn't have to dig the pavement up. I didn't mind, as he had the right qualification or registration, which I think...

Buildings deteriorate over time. Things that are fine for years can start showing damp or damage over night after a gradual build up

You need air flow, ie moving air. With only the top open, the air at the bottom of the chimney won't move anywhere

Chimneys get damp as they are subject to rain ingress, both through the top, and potentially soaking through the brickwork. Additionally, water contains a certain % of water (measured by humidity), and old chimneys full of soot, which attract water due to the high salt content. Good airflow...

There's plenty of that in certain sections of the forum! :ROFLMAO:

You will not regret putting more in. I would put as much as possible- even 100mm would be good