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Regarding the join between ceiling and wall, it's likely to crack at some point in the future, regardless of what you do. All 3 of your points would work, so I'd just leave it to the plasterer to decide.

I just used whatever was cheapest on Amazon at the time. I think it was mahogany everbuild

One thing that I was recommended to do, to prevent the ply joints showing through lvt/vinyl was to leave a couple of mm gap, and use 2 part wood filler to fill them, and sand it flat. Means you won't see the pattern of the ply, and any slight thickness differences between the ply won't show through

Think the washers are overkill if you are overboarding within the next 10min myself

I find it easiest to stick a couple of screws through the insulation (at an angle to stop them pulling through) so it stays up

Mine were similar to elements boards. Marmox multi boards. Cheaper too!!

I fixed 40mm XPS cement board directly to brick (having removed the plaster) using dot and dab tile adhesive, with 6 fixings through the dabs. The drilled hole got a squirt of silicon before the screw went in. Each 40mm board was then "glued" to the next using a generous bead of silicon to help...

Pir is pretty resistant to spread loads, but doesnt perform well with point loads, so it ideally needs something, doesnt need to be more than 6mm ply, just to protect it

I'm no engineer, but I'm pretty sure a 4inch fan in a ceiling wont pressurise a house and force damp air anywhere apart from through the various vents, cracks and gaps that exist in most houses with solid walls. Basically just forced ventilation, not that different to opening a window or having...

Positive input ventilation. It's basically an extractor fan that runs in reverse. You tend to put it in the stairwell of the building, with the main unit in the loft above. It pumps in cold, but dry, air, usually overnight, which reduces the risk of condensation and mould

I used it in a room that suffered condensation issues in corners that were not well ventilated, and are solid construction. It went mouldy slightly more slowly than the wall did. I wouldn't recommend it, and I'm fitting a PIV unit instead to prevent mould growth issues

You could, but it's the same thickness as the separate components, and twice the price. Insulation is one of those things you rarely regret putting more in, but can often regret not putting enough in

I'd also put a layer of insulation across the battens, ideally 50mm, but 25mm would do, otherwise you will get stripes where the battens are acting as cold bridges

You are correct, but you mean volume and not weight

I've seen prefab McDonald's go up, but didn't know about Jehovah's witnesses. Interesting

It's quite a well known technology. There has been a few "factory made" houses on grand designs over the years. Crazy to see a team of builders build a house in 3 days- they can even come ready painted and finished flooring already inplace

I would speak to your local waste management firm, as I imagine they deal with it. Given the work you plan, I take it you are involving the relevant local authority? I understand most riverbank work needs some sort of assessment/permission

No worries

It's your responsibility to ensure it's done, but most builders will help you sort it, but you may need to contact the council yourself. It's pretty straightforward, they will just want to see any structural calculations/specifications of lintels, and then will pop in at key times

No planning, but you may need building control inspections depending on whether the walls are structural or not, and if you make the external door opening wider. They will also be interested in your new door!