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Unless the building is going to be structurally unsound during the building work, or you will have no access to a toilet, there shouldn't be a problem. It might be uncomfortable, and the builders may complain as you could get in the way, but I doubt BC will have an issue

Don't think I'll post a photo of my attempt

Very doable. Just be prepared to rip it down if you're not happy with it (sooner the better, as it's a lot easier when mortar is soft) Getting the mortar mix right is, imo, the most important bit, as if this is right it makes everything else that bit easier

What sub base do you have? Quite fancy this for my front drive

This thread may give you a rough idea of the how https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/structure-for-gable-window.588890/

I agree 100%, but some councils take it far enough that a lot of people would rip it out without playing chicken with them, as they don't consult the experts on here or planning jungle!

Even if it's within the 300mm rule, there are plenty of threads on this website where councils ignore this rule, and pursue homeowners for decking that is within the rules. This may work in your favour! I would certainly be complaining to the planning dept of the council, although I would...

You won't even need that blade if they are thermalite I've used an old bread knife before! Might need that blade for the mortar

Can I ask why this is advised? Is to prevent moisture getting trapped between the layers?

If you are doing more building work, it can be used as hardcore. If not, it's not much use for anything else, so you can: take it to the local tip, pile it somewhere accessible and get a grab lorry or get a skip.

Given he has mentioned a party wall agreement, I would guess that he will be making alterations that affect a shared wall (or your shed roof may become the floor of his 1st floor extension). As above, Deluks says, we can't guess what he may want to do! Ask what his plan is, even request a copy...

I've got a row of kitchen wall cabinets hanging on a thermalite wall. I used 8mm Fischer duoplugs with 80mm screws on a batten every 150mm. I cut a gap in the plasterboard so the batten was flush, and glued it in place as well, painted to match the wall. They've not moved since

It should be under the concrete, but experience has taught me to be cautious.

I would use the breaker on areas more than a foot away from where the pipe is. I'd then hand dig under the concrete above the gas pipe, and find it so you can work out whether you can use any tools to remove the rest of the concrete

I would just spray some penetrating oil into the hinges- rehanging these doors is a pain!

You should for the 1st floor, but not the ground floor as woody says. It can cause issues with cold joist ends in the wall, so important to get the details right on the design The idea is to have continuous insulation so no warm damp air from the living area can find a cold surface to condense on.

Insulated ducting would help, also available are condensation traps, but that would need a pipe routing to a suitable drain for the water

Just to echo the door point- I recently had my doors replaced, and went from having a 10mm gap under my bathroom door to a very small gap, maybe 2-3mm, and condensation has gotten noticeably worse.

That's crazy imo. Did you put your room dimensions into the TLC vent check? I have a pretty small bathroom and I had to get an inline fan to hit their recommendation

Are they recommended when they have 1.4m of ducting to go through? I find it very hard to believe anyone would recommend one of those extractor fans if it was doing anything but going straight through a wall. What does the TLC fan size calculator recommend?