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Ref. my original question, that all makes sense now. I'll be changing the setup as I originally felt I should.

The thought never crossed my mind :LOL: Thanks again all.

It is a bit isn't it? Ransom Spares is quite an appropriate name at the prices these sorts of modules go for. No wonder so many appliances end up being scrapped.

Handy gadget!

Thanks for the replies everyone - it's not much extra work to do this properly (I have one of those chain drilling templates for doing back boxes) so in the absence of anyone selling a beefed up unfused triple, my instinct is to put this right and do it how it should have been done in the first...

Fair point. I haven't done the maths yet, but we have a dishwasher, washing machine and a waste disposal on it (!) - so it wouldn't surprise me if the total current through it was close to 13A at times. It's not much effort in this case to change the setup, so I just felt that is what should...

We have an MK triple switched outlet in our kitchen on the ring main, not a spur. See Screwfix item 17315. Yesterday, the three appliances on it lost power. The socket has been there with the same three appliances on it for over a decade and I didn't initially realise this outlet plate has...

Yeah - it will have to be a non-fibre one for sure. Good point on re-priming, thanks.

Thanks. On the left hand side, I just spent far too long mixing the second tub (it needed two per side) and when I added that to what was already down, that had started to skin over so they didn't mix together that well. It's too tempting to try and trowel it and that didn't help. So there...

Just an update on this posting if it helps anyone else working with similar issues/contraints. I decided to go with priming using BAL Prime APD, then BAL Level Max leveller on the basis that I've been using BAL products over the years and not had any problems, and this stuff seemed to be rated...

Two holes in the tank, two immersion heaters, each wired off their own consumer unit and operating independently of each other - as per @AdrianUK description. Thanks.

@AdrianUK Weird!

@AdrianUK That's interesting. I wonder if I had a similar problem as you back in 2022 (and possibly prior occasions). One side of the immersion had a screw terminal on it. The other had a short bit of link wire - and it is that you see well baked in my photo. I definetely replaced it at that...

Yes - well, the modern equiv of E7 anyway. It's a five terminal smartmeter now (which replaced one of those old radio control Economy 7 switches). There is second immersion heater and circuit which I referred to as boost which is wired off the nomal supply via a switch in the kitchen. That...

Just an update as I've been across to the flat this morning. Dug out the stat and there were no signs of overheating and it was functioning correctly at that point. So I opened it up* and it was actually like new inside - shiny copper and no signs of overheating whatsoever. So it's a bit of a...

The BES one is the same item - TS220.

It's a Tesla immersion heater element. I've had a good check around and can find nothing wrong circuit wise. The only other thing on the E7 circuit is a single storage heater and not had a minutes problem with that and it has been in for seven years. I've had a dig about in my records and...

I keep having issues in a flat we own with Tesla dual safety immersion thermostats item 21275 from Screwfix on the Economy 7 circuit/heater. The boost circuit doesn't get used enough to draw any conclusions for that one. The E7 stat seems to last barely longer than the one year warranty Tesla...

PS - I'm not convinced how effective ultrasonic pest deterrant devices are for some creatures, but bats communicate ultrasonically so it's reasonable to assume such devices might work better against them. That would still likely be classed as deliberately disturbing their roost though. If you...

Good point - and I had a look at that today and I think it should work out OK. They have just had a new carpet in the hall which, with the underlay too, is much thicker than the old floor covering it replaced - so it should end up roughly level. The gap under the bathroom door is already...