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In the first instance You could just use a multi meter to see if there's continuity between the outer core and central "stinger" by putting the leads on one end and shorting the other end out Screwfix do this these for Network testing though...

Has the shower got over run with a condensation sensor? I used anti condensation paint in our bathroom that contains small fibre glass fibres that make the wall warmer to touch.

I guess the current takes the path of least resistance

Re-terminate the Live while you're at it, too much copper is showing. I'd at least expect a stuffing gland to hold the cable in place

Did the grey not have any type of Blue Sleeving on it?

Where is the screw gone from that terminal? L_W Live Wire? Is there any kind of PIR device on the outside light?

You could try to see if a fish tape could push through and attach some strong blue rope if it does to use as a draw rope. Definitely do what ^ Murdochat ^ above suggests in the first instance

Run a Screened Cat6 with it use a hosepipe or duct to protect it. I ran 10mm to my Garden room for sockets the Electrician you hire will probably do the same or 16mm, really depends on the power consumption the Sauna will require.

I didn't say there were than five EFL, just that one is held in by the screw holding the back box in on the right above the live brown cables - which isn't normal.

I'm not sure why one of the earths is held by a screw against the back box on the right, maybe whoever did this did it due to it not reaching the socket. It's not normal to have four cables connected in a socket but two might just be spurs to other sockets & the other two part of a ring or...

So if I'm reading this correctly you can install a normal back box that's 25mm deep (33mm) or chase out some plaster to use a deeper 35mm box? Bury it as long as it's in an obvious safe zone place it in metal conduit if it's not so it's mechanically protected, surface mounted trunking will look...

Looks like you have two switches in the kitchen, a feed in and a feed to the next lot of lights. Have you a volt stick to see which is the incoming feed (probably the "blue wire")?

Can you send a photo of the Switch wiring? You'll need a minimum of a T&E feeding your wall light from the switch

The Way that's been terminated looks a little poor, the Brown has too much copper on show, is that black terminated into the switch got damaged insulation? I don't know why the grey outer sheath hasn't been stripped back more so there's more room in the back box.

It will be accessible so something like this > https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CHOC30A.html As you'll have stranded and solid core

The lights don't look heavy though and the hook is secured well to the wall.

I would just plaster over the conduit & junction box and leave the "slit" so the wires are still accessible and it's hidden by the wall light. Looks a bit of a bodge but a good bodge & the fitting is earthed.

Yes I looked at all circuits with Limitation on all IR testing, one could at least lower to 250v and do some kind of test on some circuits. With regards to the sockets they should be able to be switched off and End to end resistances have been taken so not sure why no IR.

Could be a right pain in the arse to move it depending on how the cable comes up, might not reach without replacing one part of the ring - if it is a ring.

Maybe Quinetic could be the answer https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Quinetic/index.html