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If you’ve just moved into the place, personally I’d advise you call a gasman in to give it a once over, make sure it’s safe (These are not covered by your survey), and get an idea of what condition it’s in and get them to walk you through (a) how to use it and (b) how the user controls can be...

If you have a gas hob/oven - light them to see if they work and to check that your gas is actually back on. Additionally, check your gas meter, most credit meters tell you if the gas is on/off. If you’ve pressed the reset button, the fault clears and then comes back when it tries to relight...

To be fair, I have never stripped one down, there probably is a seal in there, but the housing is available as a complete spare which of what I would probably swap out and may be your best option: https://www.showerdoc.com/triton-solenoid-stabiliser-insc-2-t80zslim-thm-p27410800 Of course...

Nest will work in a multi zone setup, but you will need to remove the Vaillant wiring centre and replace it with a more generic style of wiring. As for the hot water, Nest will be on/off control for all the zones, you will need to provide a cylinder thermostat for the cylinder to control the...

I too have this experience, but I do have to say that we have reduced our consumption since going “smart” with our controls, but for us I can attribute it 100% to do the fact that the over half understands how to turn it off whereas our old control setup (Funnily enough Vaillant controls), she...

So my personal opinion is rip the Vaillant controls out and go Nest/Tado/Honeywell/yadayadayada (Nest is my personal go to brand). Leave boiler companies to boilers and controls to control companies. It is a personal opinion and many will disagree, but I personally hate Vaillant controls and...

Dilalio beat me to the post button :) The only thing I will add is that there are so many different types of system and cylinder - that caution should be applied by other readers as there are cylinders out there that appear to have a coil but should not have cleaners added as they can mix with...

Sorry, roll back a bit, I am guessing you are fitting the extension kit and as that junction box is not wired up as it was originally intended, you should be able to go to HW on and then wire the cylinder stat C,1&2. This would make it easier to diagnose in the future, however I cannot remember...

What boiler?

I personally would advise you get that moved, BS6400 6.9.1.3(c) states a meter cannot be located in a position where it could be exposed to accidental damage. And 6.9.1.3(d) states that it cannot cause an obstruction. Of course, if you can integrate it into a corner pillar where a vehicle strike...

Drain system, new 3 port or split to x2 2 ports and a bypass. New cylinder stat. Rewire. The existing system is a 2 wire valve and from memory it gets pulsed to open for the heating and the flow pipe sensor works out how much heat to put in. It’s like a VT circuit on a commercial heating...

G3 does not apply to a hot water storage system of 15ltrs or less at mains pressure, so yes, a plate heat exchanger is generally well under 15ltrs. Although your terminology is slightly off as you I read your post as a “Unvented Thermal Store” - clarify the product you wish to install. Please...

Likewise. Sorry, I’m speechless on this one.

You probably need a new 2 port for your hot water. As long as the wiring diagram is accurate of course ;) On the side of the Honeywell valves is a lever, resistance on the lever = closed, loose = open ... When you have hot water on, turn cylinder stat down, valve should close. Turn cylinder...

Sorry, I meant what kind of system, S-Plan, Y-Plan, vented/invented hot water? Is the immersion turned off? Is the boiler actually running and trying to heat the hot water?

Not necessarily- could be a stuck open zone valve. What kind of system is it?

Vaillant controls are awful. Hard to use, hard to set, not intuitive and to be fair, not very intelligent. Hats off to anyone that really understands them. The only time we ever fit Vaillant controls is when cascading their boilers, otherwise it’s always aftermarket controls.

Additionally you can only use Vaillant controls with the Vaillant eBus. That means everyone with a Vaillant needs to buy a vSmart, which isn’t the smartest decision in the world as you’ll also need a spare power supply to run it as they forgot that their own boiler has the ability to power it...

1) If you are moving a radiator and pipework you need to drain the lot. 2) Correct. No heating or hot water until the system is back up and running again. 3) No. Personally I’d check the precharge pressure and top it up as needed just for the fact it’s a convenient time to do it, but no...

@NTA - does the rad symbol on the front of the boiler start to flash when the demand is removed?