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Heating signal goes off, Hive Receiver led should flash for a bit, then make a click noise, then rad symbol on front of boiler should flash for a bit as the boiler “runs on” to clear its heat. The run on period will depend on the heat left in the heat exchanger.

Fair enough @lostinthelight I get what you mean now. It’s a faff, but nothing compared to the water damage from the thing pinging apart anyway - at that point I’d be saying pay a pro anyway.

If you have the 300 then yeah, sorry, SF don’t sell smaller to my knowledge - plumbers merchants will (although they may need to order as the common sizes are 300 and 500). As it is tank pressure, you will get away with a bend like that, but it will look a bit pony. I’ve seen people literally...

So they sell a 300mm long one :whistle: Or if desperate, you can buy 150mm ones: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0187NX1FC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nkiqDb2P4WMKA Plumbing merchants will also have access to a wide variety of variants as well. All you need is 15mm to 1/2” female BSP. Most will say tap...

What’s the distance and what length hose did you buy? Is this mains or tank pressure?

Huh? If the pipe goes then the isolation valve still works, as the valve is before the hose.... if the compression fitting itself pops off then I agree, you are screwed, but that’s no different to if any compression or push fit fitting pops off at the compression ring. With the in built hoses...

Personally I wouldn’t bend it that much, but if it’s tank rather than mains pressure, you should be ok. If this was me, I’d be looking to unsweat the coupling, but appreciate this may be a bit beyond your skills. Also, don’t cut the pipe too close to the bend, it won’t be round and the...

Sounds like a solid plan to me. Although it’s pi$$ing down here, so I’ll pass on the beach thanks.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-bottom-entry-brass-shank-fill-valve/47792 Just check the height and configuration of the new cistern though. You may need bottom entry or a shorter one.

You don’t need jointing paste. The olive makes a mechanical seal and a 1/2” tap washer between the shank of the fill valve and hose.

[edit] Hugh beat me too it. +1 No!!!! Sorry, never put PTFE on the pipe before an olive, you can sometimes find the olive just grips the PTFE and when you sit back and crack open the beer - pop goes the connection and voila - indoor sprinkler. I personally do not advise PTFE for this kind of...

Yes bud, the valve end is 15mm compression and the other end is 1/2” female BSP for tap connection. I always advise binning the cheap “thrown in” full valve with a brass shank fluidmaster - but that is up to you.

Or one like this with a valve built in (be warned, these are suitable for emergency isolation only really as they often leak if turned too much).... https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-with-valve-15mm-x-x-300mm/3558g

That would explain why the installation does not meet the basic requirements for this kind of cylinder. All I can say is that you will probably need to use the bottom immersion otherwise you will only ever get the top part of the tank with hot water. Somewhere on the tank (Looks like bottom...

1) Turn on the "bottom immersion" - Does the switch illuminate? - If it doesn't; as JohnD said, you may have a dual supply, in which case - Leave it on and check 2-4AM to see if it illuminates... This can then be left on 24/7 and it will heat a full tank during the offpeak hours; and if you...

Why not just fit an Immersun style unit? Something like the Solic and then you can use a standard immersion and still boost as needed. 1) Depends on how big your tank is. 2) No, they should not be bent. There is a small amount of flex, but they are not designed to be bent or flexed and can break.

Probably be ok just shutting the stop cock - There will always be a bit of water come out... You sure the gate valve isn't the bypass for the heating system? Pictures always help... But if it is an unvented - Shut the stop cock; open the taps and let it vent. Swap the shower; close taps; open...

I'm seriously loving EFLImpudence's drawing - So pretty!! :)

@Malky23: This pretty normal for a new build. Your existing thermostats are battery powered. If the grey is simply folded back, then it’s not likely that it is connected to a Neutral at the other end (This is not always the case so caution and a multimeter should be used). The wire has simply...

:sneaky: You would be 100% right - Copy and paste is my friend at the best of times. As ianmcd said, but as yours is 8yrs old now; I am guessing you are not too worried about warranty. The VR33 can work with your 937 but there is a slight bug which I have noticed with the 9 series... Because...