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I assume you have changed the batteries. Although it switches the mains wires on/off, it is battery powered.itself. Best to switch off the mains even for battery change. Any digital wired thermostat would fit on the box although you may have to reconnect the wires according to the instructions.

Get a close up of the flue terminal - it may have an end piece that can be re-mounted to point L R U or D.

We had one of these traps cleared by a drain man years ago - he used a double ladel thing to grab stones and bits to get them out.

Is the brand new isolating valve the same as the old one ? A full bore valve may improve things.

If the boiler is at a local high point - i.e flow and return come in underneath the boiler, better get a gasafe to come and check / replace the auto air vent.

The old radiator valve is also a union fitting and you will require a large hex key to fit inside the radiator tail toget it out. If you undo the union on your new valve with drain, you will see the internal hex "socket" .

The basic difference is that trvs have 15mm compression fitting onto the radiator tail which is a piece of 15mm pipe sticking out with 1/2 inch bsp male going into the radiator. Whereas the drain off valve has what looks like a union fitting not requiring an olive, the other end is ofcourse 1/2...

Possibly 1 The return from one zone is finding a path through the radiators of the other zone. Follow the hot water shortly after switching on to see where it goes. Turn the radiator valves down to offer more resistance so they the return pipe is the reasier path. 2 There is local convection...

There should be an auto air vent inside the boiler - maybe stuck closed. On our old ecotec pro, its above / behind the pump. We had air in the system causing pressure drop two days after radiators were changed as the air finds its way out although our air vent worked so we just had the pressure...

Turn off all the other radiators apart from one of the bad ones. When that starts working, open the other one. When both are working, open the other radiators a little each.

On second thoughts, just check the collar is tight - may just be loose.

You could try two things Remove the head by undoing the silver collar and squirt wd40 on the pin inthe valve see ifthat helps. If you have other similar valves, swap over the heads to where the fault is. Then you can buy a new valve and just change the head. All this does not involve any...

Looks like tenant needs to clean the outside of this one ! Or is that down to the landlord as well ? (I am neither ).

The broken key in the valve is probably jammed in with corrosion or limescale - dig out the bits with a thin screwdriver. You could top up the system some other way if it goes below limit.

I just had a quick look on Ebay - you can buy just the handle you broke, its called a key. Looks like a fancy radiator key. It's probably designed to break before the valve. In the meantime squirt a little wd40 over several hours to let it soak in. Then try your radiator key, back and forth a...

How on earth was that awning put up with a whole row of gas boilers discharging under it?

Steel pipes are threaded at the ends and joined by screwing joints onto them. You'd have to unscrew it at a joint then screw on a threaded f cap or threaded m plug.

My son just bought a house with the boiler in the loft and its 14 years old - it is a pain. A filling loop and pressure guage has been installed in the old airing cupboard where all the pipes come down - that helps to keep an eye on the pressure. A good point is that the water is clean up there...

Any switch needs to be outside the bathroom ( or a pull switch). The outside switch could be a time switch. I think the thermostat is internal to prevent overheating, no room temperature control as such.

You could look at the electric meter to see the increase in wattage.