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It appears from your diagram that the dining and living rooms are connected to the consumer unit only via the light switch in the hall. I assume that's an oversight? In any case I'd have assumed you'd basically just replicate the existing lighting circuit unless it's totally irrational(?)

From the nature of the question I'm assuming you don't intend to have it signed off, in which case my hunch is that you would be well advised to have a proper wall finishing to avoid any potential legal argument n years down the line over whether the work was never actually completed and thus...

If you can't replace the waste altogether it's going to be a lot less risky to modify the plug than the hole (though obviously less convenient in use). You may just be able to get the plug good and hot and force it in there. Wouldn't recommend removing metal from plughole because it's not very...

Ah, but it does if you are familiar with the wonders of system built postwar (ex-)local authority housing stock.

It looks to me like it's probably tubular chipboard in which case you can just screw straight into it and the use of plugs is actively counterproductive. The complication is that as the name implies there are repeated voids and also it's quite thin from front to back so you will want to avoid...

"Undercutting tool" apparently. Check you get the right size.

If I were you I would look at the specification sheet (or ask the manufacturer) of the bi-folding door system you plan to use, as it may well provide information about lintel requirements. I am not going to offer any specific advice because double glazing is incredibly heavy and the leverage...

If the pier is freestanding it doesn't sound unexpected that you'd need some reinforcement in it. You can have a considerable wind loading at the top of a closed panel gate but you'll have hardly any weight holding the bricks in place and a standard mortar mix is weak, so what's going to resist...

Are gripits the discs that send out some little wings when you turn the cam? If so they sell a little drill attachment for creating a suitable void around the back of the hole. I'd wear a mask when dealing with any sort of insulation, especially if deliberately pulverizing it

Kitchens are excepted from inner room restrictions unless there's some bungalow specific rule(?)

It doesn't strike me as desirable to have to use the front door to access the back garden, if that is indeed the implication of the proposal, but I don't think there's likely to be a legal impediment. Where you could have a building regs problem is if the front door offers worse disabled access...

The female blanking cap you have doesn't care about the size of the pipe, only the size/pitch of the male thread. A compression coupling for a 15mm pipe is almost certain to be ½ inch threads so your ½ inch cap should work but you will need to put a rubber washer or disc inside the cap if it...

I agree with Terry. I have the same issue with new bath taps, my intention is to drill a snug hole through a bit of ply and glue concentrically to the underside.

You want a certain amount of clearance around the pipe in any case, so I'm not sure the extra 5mm compared to an ideal 20mm or so or so is really going to matter. That said, tiling doesn't need to be done all at once so it shouldn't be too hard to time things so you only need the system drained...