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You could also consider hiring trackway panels. I’ve no idea about the relative cost, but it’s worth checking out if it is only needed temporarily.

There's not much point having two RCDs; either one or the other (or both?) could trip. Don't imagine that the more-downstream RCD will always trip first.

On the subject of kettles - can anyone recommend a cheap left-handed one? I'd better explain. When we were all young, kettles were ambidextrous. Then they started putting water level gauges on them, most often on the side where you can see it while holding it in your right hand under the tap...

That's fine. The red wire in the 2&E from the light is the permanent live, which goes through the various switches and the eventual switched live is the red wire coming back from downstairs. That's then connected to the black wire going to the light, which is the light's switched live. It...

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You’re the one who did the course!

How old is it? If you just bought it, it’s not asbestos.

You do need a connection to your incoming water pipe - unless it is a plastic pipe as it runs underground. Being plastic is quite possible in a 1995 build. No, you cannot fit an earth rod instead of connecting to the metal water pipe.

Sadly, the “electrician” who does the EICR for you may also ask the Artificial Stupidity if it’s OK, and get the same answer that you got. We’re all doomed. I’m going to live in a cave, bye!

OK. Assuming that there is no way to configure either the recorder or the router to disable on a time schedule, then as above, connect it via any ethernet switch and put a timeswitch in its mains supply. When no power is connected, nothing goes through. There are some suitable switches on ebay...

Have you observed any actual damp, or are you just looking at the numbers on your meter?

So… are your cameras powered using power-over-ethernet, or not?

My thinking with the “do you have a multimeter?” question was to follow up with “what do you measure on the wagos, 8 V AC, 240 V AC, or nothing?”.

First, find out whether the bearing is replaceable and available. I wasted a lot of time dismantling my old washing machine and attempting to remove the bearing - and then realised that the replacement I had purchased was totally different, and that it was in fact not replaceable. Hint: if only...

Yeah, any cheapo ethernet switch, with as few ports as you can get, e.g. 4 or 5; just connect to any two of the ports and switch the power with a timeeswitch.

photos of the inside?

Do you have a multimeter?

That will depend on what’s on the other ends of those wires. I guess you have a bell transformer somewhere? And a button? I guess that the 4-core wire with the blue/green/white striped cores goes to the button - check inside the button to confirm.

I found this one, which is not what you are describing… ( https://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/pa_359418.pdf ) I think that gives you “normal” behaviour. What’s the advantage? What do they mean by “live and switched live are at different positions”?

Are they generic instructions, not specific to the pneumatic switch? (Does the pneumatic switch even have a third contact?)