Search results

If you are living there for 30 years then the extra £30 a year to do the job properly would seem like a no brainer.

The builder does not know what he is talking about.

Always put it as far away from the door as you can, it moves the most air that way.

I've used a scaffold board for a rustic shelf in my utility room and the same thing happened, give it a fine sand and it should be smooth after a couple of coats.

I've done it just with an old saw, worked fine.

It sounds highly likely that it will be absolutely fine to remove. A photo of the top of the wall from the loft would enable us to confirm this.

I've got a cellar and use it for homebrew, just watch out for infections as the damp air makes them more likely. I wash out everything upstairs and just carry my water down from the utility. I also made a fermentation cabinet to keep the brew at a nice stable temperature as the cellar is a...

I'd have decorative flex running from a small fitting on the plastered ceiling I think. Prevents some idiot from banging a nail into the beam in future without thinking that there may be a cable within.

I'd just fill it with board adhesive as you suggest.

It might whiff a bit but not sure why it would cause mould or dampness. The builder could just claim that they fitted an AAV originally and you removed it. As it's very easy to sort I'd just get on with it and resolve it. If you don't fix this quickly when the fix is that simple then it's...

Personally, I'd be taking the ceiling down and reboarding it, not a huge job and not significantly more expensive than just skimming as 8x4 boards are only a fiver each. You could even overboard it.

Make sure it is ventillated really well then it should be fine. I assume that the walls aren't dripping wet and there is no standing water.

As its really narrow the worst that could happen if you removed the bricks would be that one or two above the opening would become loose. I'd be temped to pop a small lintel in higher up and make more storage out of it, 7 foot of horizontal shelves spaced a foot apart would be useful and could...

Mine are 140 years old and looked great after a dip.

Structural work, electrics, plumbing, plastering, decorating in that order!

Check your neighbours house if they are the same design..

Those doors are without doubt the right way up. The bottom rail is always bigger. The layout of the panels, while curious, is deliberate. If they arent drying then I'd give the wet areas a rub with a rag soaked in white vinegar, this helps speed the process and I have done it on mine.

I'd go for two to each room all radiating from a central point, if that central point isnt where your router is then I would run another two to that point (one is all you need but it's nice to have a little redundancy.) People will tell you there is no point with wireless etc etc but personally...

Your cellar has probably been slightly damp for over 100 years, basically you either live with it and make minor changes to make the best of what you have or spend a fortune converting it to a proper habitable room - from experience there is nothing that works in between these two options. Keep...

The socket in the cupboard is dodgy and should be something more permanent. The low voltage cables for the LED lighting are a mess but that could all easily be removed.