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Get a Vaillant control then flog it if you get rid of your ecotec. As they're pricey new they usually still sell for a decent amount second hand on eBay.

Having put in a bit of 100mm PIR so I could easily board around the hatch and still have a little headheight It's a right faff, especially if the joist sides aren't completely parallel. By comparison just rolling some top up loftrolls at 90 degrees to the existing joists is cheap and easy, you...

Around 1kW does seem to be the cut-off for some manufacturers fitting C16 inlets rather than C14, 550W PSU for the switch I've checked has C14 fitted, 1050W PSU comes with C16 (that I've never personally seen leads for in 0.75mm), they seem to be designing it so less knowledgeable persons are...

These days IT equipment that has a higher power draw usually come either with C16 or even C20 inlets, the cables for this are usually 1.0mm2 or even 1.5mm2 and you can't just use your 0.75mm lead in unless you're using an adapter or using it to feed a PDU. It's a bit of a pain for us as the...

If it's a standard size new lock is easiest and not very expensive, if it's an odd (expensive) size it is possible to service them.

You can sometimes also lever it out through the screwholes with a small flat once you've taken the screws out, mortice locks (and most other locks) aren't designed to be lubricated throughout with oil.

You can get compatible drums for this model, from experience compatible quality is fairly close but not quite as good as original part You can get a single black drum for a tenner which sounds cheap enough as a punt if you just want to keep it going as a B&W unit for a bit, if you want colour...

The condensate pumps on our work aircon units make almost no noise, I'd be amazed if you could hear it above the normal whirrs and other noise you get from a boiler, the pump would only have to run if the boiler is going and discharging condensate. That webpage seems to mix up a soakaway for...

It has a slightly newer 30A fuse and 30mA RCD upstream so this fusebox is secondary anyway.

Oh goody, so the ancient Prento ceramic fuses in my shed have asbestos behind them? Might make it's replacement or the possibility of a fuse going before that more "interesting" than I hoped.

It is all explained in the info on github for the firmware ... https://github.com/danielkucera/esp-arduino-ebus

Actually it's possible you could have a certain amount of leakage from both if the earths are not connected to earth but commonly connected, if you're touching an appliance current could be sourced from any leakage sources present.

Well no, but it if's normal leakage that's below 30mA it wouldn't trip would it?

The RCD is one of the few things that might be OK? I took this to mean the RCD test button is working as expected.

This is something I see a work on a regular basis, a comms cab typically is fed by a PDU connected to a 16A socket on with a 16A MCB behind it, we have a model of switch which typically sees a switch mode PSU failure where the MCB will trip, we've never/rarely had to replace a plug top fuse in...

Very shiny consumer unit, looks brand new. strange that a professional would forget to remove the check tightness warning sticker, wonder if they bothered? In terms of doing a very basic earth check my Kewtech Looptech 107 plugin tester is useful, I had a slight shock off my mum's dishwasher...

Ah no, it's different: https://github.com/danielkucera/esp-arduino-ebus You can reflash the device in a similar way though if you scroll down to "Upgrading over USB"

Small ESP devices are also normally programmable over the USB cable, if it's running or can run the same firmware as the official adapters unplug it from the ebus, connect it to a laptop and use the webpage: https://adapter.ebusd.eu/v5/firmware.en, you can erase the settings and re-connect to...

"The following signatures couldn't be verified because the public key is not available: NO_PUBKEY E30CF1F4E8C8272C" Step one has failed so it doesn't recognise the packages as signed, looking at it closely an extra character crept in to the URL when it was pasted in to the post. sudo wget -q -O...

An esp device is fine for attaching to the physical ebus and converting it but ebusd which does the useful decoding and querying does need to run somewhere, doesn't need to be a Pi but it does need to be able to talk to the adapter.