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There are also bathroom fans with a PIR sensor, as with a humidity sensor unit it could just be a simple fan swap then, nothing complicated.

The spec says overall consumption on the bus shouldn't be greater than 100mA so this possibly might violate the spec, I've not measured the consumption of an esp board but the Vaillant Wireless base units are labelled as 50mA, it's possibly in the realms of "works with this setup but not that...

Just replace it, it costs pennies and you've nothing to lose if it currently doesn't work

They can coexist but to run HA you'd have to set up and run it in Docker on the Pi (which should be doable if slightly fiddly), it can't be installed as a normal daemon or service.

If you're looking at Home Assistant it's easiest just to run it on a completely separate device unless you know what Docker is, there's a downloadable image to stick on a card that you can put in a Raspberry Pi.

ebusd gives you access to read (and write) data to devices on the ebus setup, no more, no less. What you then do with that data is down to what you want to achieve, you could just read all various diagnostic values that your boiler/heap pump produce, if you're feeling adventurous you could...

The flexi stuff is great, used it for some set we were building to do some arches

Unless you can prove it isn't live you really shouldn't touch anything.

Non-contact testers are not a 100% reliable way to test for dead, if you can trace where the cable goes to/from such as a ceiling rose or junction box you can use a 2 pole tester to check it, I'd just turn off the isolator to turn off everything, especially if it's unclear.

Funnily enough this is the failure my furry friend was hitting, RCD trips as they got to the Neutral first, as it's an old 90s Wylex board it has one 100mA RCD covering the lot which wasn't terribly convenient (yes, I know, I know) This cable actually has had some polystyrene sheets on top of...

If you can work out where the cable is going from and to you'll have some idea of what you need to do and how much of a faff it is, sometimes you strike lucky (like I did) and find the gnawy dickheads nibbled on a 3m length going between a junction box and ceiling rose which was a piece of cake.

If you want to look at the historical data it's here: https://agsi.gie.eu/data-overview/graphs/GB* Shortage of storage or commodity games?

Your message must have been delayed in the system somewhere, it doesn't make any sense

No it's fine, it's all one network at an Ethernet level, the same addresses would be allocated from DHCP to wireless and wired connected devices.

There isn't a clear answer because it depends on what you have unfortunately. Usually the little wireless routers have a WAN Internet Service Provider port and the rest are LAN local access ports, you should be able to use the local ports for other devices but some devices are more configurable...

Looking closely at some of the pictures to my (less experienced) eye it looks like at least some of the water may be coming through the wall under the window as you can see cracks in the mortar inside and out.

That it's isolated is quite the assumption with anything modern, a number of them run in an ECO bypassed mode as switch mode power supplies are usually fine with the few ms of interruption, a number of designs also don't have galvanic isolation with the neutral referenced from the input...

How isn't this unit just "MVHR but stick it all in the loft"? Part of MVHR's advantage is they do extract/supply from separate locations, if you bin that a load of efficiency and advantages just go away?

Absolutely normal, you could use a plug thermostat or some other controls if you need something more sophisticated.

Is the roofspace insulated? This at least costs almost nothing and is worth doing even for a workshop space if it's heated to some level