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Where do you learn all the really in depth stuff, Dan you said you went to uni sometime in the distant path.... What did you study? I don't remember pipe sizing in college.....

Why 28? you get the 24kw down the 22, not that you'll use all that while on heating so why go to the extra cost? If it is the case we should be fitting 28mm so far in the system shouldn't the connections from the boiler be in 28mm? what if you fit a boiler, and then change the load required to...

Well intergas maybe an exception. Looks like I'm going to try on of these intergases everyone in the cc goes on about, but for half decent hot water I will need the 28/24? I'm being the guinea pig if I like the one in my house I may start to give the option to customers :D

Ideal, don't 24kw combis have 19kw max heating output 24kw for dhw? the heating output is never as much as dhw. Then after the boiler figures out the output required from it it will modulate down to suit the load. So combis aren't oversized, but you need a minnimum (24kw) output on the hot water...

I never even thought about push fit, I suppose it's ultimately the diameter of the insert, but still 8mm supplying a single radiator (not k1 I mean 1 rad) would be sufficient surely? I don't use 8mm copper myself and very rarely use push fit, but I have used 10mm push fit in one or two houses...

Nothing wrong with 10mm, will carry around 3kw so supplying each rad individually is fine, trunking down the wall and if your good at working with copper it'll look fine!

What are the arguments against?? 22mm will carry enough heat to supply all rads, then down size to 10mm which will carry enough heat to each rad. I'm not the smartest fitter but I know 22mm will carry around 13kw and 10 around 3kw I doubt one rad in the house will be more than 3kw?? why...

use one to weaken certain bits on the pan/ connection to soil pipe so when you take a hammer to it you wont crack the earthenware soil pipe below ground, crack that and you'll be in the s h i t as it were

uh oh......

use an angle grinder to cut the outlet flush to the floor, quite often if the pans cemented to floor knocking a bolster inbetween the pan and the floor can 'pop' the pan free from the floor

Rad sizing, measure the width length and depth of the room, window area and note whats above/ below. Google rad size calculator, type in info on each room to get rad size, oversize around 10% for condensing boilers. Heating circuit, run 22mm f&r pipe to roughly centre of the house, manifolds to...

Never seen those before NGI, learn something new everyday. I'd a cut the stack, removed a chunk, changed the tee and used slip couplings to get it all back together. What a kuffuffle! :lol:

Looks like a tee with a boss on the side that was in use but has now been blanked. Maybe remove the tee and fit a new one without a boss?

+1 72

Depends if it's a condensing boiler or not, condensing boilers are supposed to run at lower temps to keep them within the condensing range (getting the most out of them) but if the rads are undersized or are older rads then running at a lower temp they may not be supplying the output required by...

just read CBFs reply :oops:

The push fits you picture will be fine but, you could use two 15mm isolation valves, one end goes on the plastic and is compression, remember to put inserts into the plastic pipe. Then take the nut and olive off the other end of the isolation valve and your flexi will fit on there lovely, doing...

I'm sure whilst working for a local authority I used to get called out to redring showers (that's all they ever fitted) where the thermostat had failed, water over heated and a little plastic ball would shoot out the bottom of the shower to drain the almost boiling water before someone got...

Breadandbutter, it does have three tappings now I think about it, one is the central heating flow top left, below that is the c/h return and then theres another on the top right hand side I think all with 22mm pipes into them, I cant see anything else as it all disappears behind kitchen...