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If it's the Activ Energy ones waiting for Aldi to put them on sale again is your best bet. They tend to list batteries whenever they have any of the power tools on offer so next lot might be leaf blowers for use in the autumn.

I used largish Celotex offcuts of varying thickness that someone had skipped for filling in the awkward small gaps under the boarding adjacent to my loft hatch because there were a load of varying height timbers. Not enough to be worth buying a full sheet but small amounts of PIR are always...

Necessary if you're trying to solve a particular EMI issue but costs more and is harder to terminate properly. The issues that you'd run in to are down to how well it's terminated and if you're venturing outside potentially water ingress, FTP doesn't really help with either of those. I've seen...

Unshielded but exterior grade if it's exposed to the elements in any way.

I've had several of those die over the years, they're rubbish, switched back to the supplied injectors

Given it's all of dubious quality I'm wondering if those BS1362 are up to snuff, remember reading of counterfeit ones that were of poor construction and weren't sand filled either: https://www.pat-testing-training.net/articles/fake-fuses.php

The upper hole in the tank is higher than the diverter so the water should back up along the hose to overflow into the downpipe via the diverter rather than back up in the water butt

Mayor of what? Toytown? In the real world the tory candidates are all luke warm nobodies, one has never held any elected office and the other is a right-wing headbanger, "NO TO ULEZ" isn't enough to overcome their other huge deficiencies.

There are also point-to-point bridging wireless setups which are good for extending to another building, you then use a switch and an access AP/switch to distribute the network from that point. 450Mps for around 100 quid, more bandwidth for more. Quite a wide beam angle on the smaller units so...

Yeah, (normally) a transformer at each end to meet isolation and noise requirements, doesn't protect from lightning though which brings me to ... I've lost (parts of) an ethernet switch to lightning damage related to some of the cabling routes, still mostly worked apart from blocks of some...

Only two realistic reasons to do it are bandwidth (10G or higher) and/or distance. Fibre isn't ruinously expensive though, about £60 for a pair of optical transceivers and about £50-60 for a outdoor rated armoured patchlead.

If it's at some kind of ruggedised 2 core patchlead rather than chunky armoured 24 core the bend radius available to you in an IP box isn't so small you couldn't spiral round and take it straight through the wall, what sort of cable were you looking to put in?

I believe he might be referring to some of the peer-to-peer offerings like Hiyacar maybe: https://www.hiyacar.co.uk/ Not entirely show how well they're doing, the offerings by Zip and Enterprise are a bit more slick though coverage is variable

Warms my heart to see they're encouraging people to cut the tails on the cable ties properly, cut my arms enough over the years from knobs not doing that.

Over the distances involved cat5 will support 1G quite happily so shouldn't need immediate replacement, I'd not if it involves lifting loads of board etc. You may also find that wireless coverage from one access point in the home office alone may cover the whole garden quite happily so whether...

Overcharging usually, I've pulled a number of 7aH lead acids out of battery UPS units over the years with a decent amount of swell on them, not as bad as that one admittedly.

Is it's electricity consumption excessive? If the power consumption is right and it's staying cold properly I'd say you might be looking for a problem that isn't there.

The opensource Zigbee setups such as Home Assistant/Zigbee2mqtt/OpenHAB support mixed Zigbee installations a lot better but aren't as "Consumery", incredibly flexible and expandable though.

Barely anything but I've had two just give up over the years and they have about a 0.5 second switch-on lag.

A 2000-era fridge freezer consumes about a third more electricity than it's modern counterpart and it's a appliance that runs 24/7 so that's over 50 quid a year. It's a choice to keep it running and take the hit but given the avoided cost of a repair it's hard to see how this wouldn't cover it's...