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Thanks for the reply. BCO came yesterday and insisted on underpinning. So question no longer relevant. Cheers

My son has a, 1890ish terraced house with a small 1.3m extension to the rear of the kitchen, 2.5m wide, constructed probably about 40 years ago. As the solid kitchen floor has always been damp, we decided to replace it with an insulated solid floor under building regs. To our horror we discover...

Thanks, but new pcb already ordered. I am advised that this switch is a sealed unit integral to the board.

According to the Service manual, under 'Servicing of boiler' Page 38 Para. 13.3 ' Remove screen plate by unscrewing the two fixing screws (10, Fig. 36) Which shows the plate, through which the flame switch protrudes, to be removed. There does not appear to be any reference to the maintenance...

if you really cannot get the boiler working in time for the wedding then start collecting fan heaters from your members and have the electrician on hand to guard against any overloading. Tony . Thanks for the advice, the above is already in hand.

Tony, thank you for your helpful post. To answer your points: 1. The 'Gas Safe' Engineer did not 'turn-up out of the blue', but was requested to carry out our annual service as our normal engineer is awaiting certification renewal. When eventually contacted by our Chairman last evening...

What a wonderful post, you should be in the caring professions. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

The part number is 100555, FLAME SUPERVISION DEVICE which is a PCB with the suspect switch attached. Our qualified electrician is able to fit this for us.

Just East of Marlborough, a bit far for you I suppose. I have now established that the suspect switch is the 'flame failure reset button'. It is sloppy in its mounting and has no effect when pressed. Are the switches replaceable individually, or does that whole top board have to be replaced? TIA

Thanks, not BG, just a so called 'Gas Safe' expert.

Hi peeps, we are a small Charity running a Village Hall. Today a 'Gas Safe' engineer arrived to do the annual service on one of our Hall boilers, a 15yr old VC GB 242EH Vaillant, which has given us trouble free heating since installation, including just before the service, and advised us on...

Point taken, I will follow the advice.

Thanks noseall, You don't thiink the clay will be solid enough to just take the blinding layer? Its as much about digging down and clearing the clay as anything, it is very difficult to dig out. My local builder who does these all the time says even the houses were built without footings on...

Sorry about this, I mis-posted it under the wrong forum:- I am about to replace a floor in an 1890's terraced house. The undersite is solid clay. While I appreciate that up to 18" should be removed to be ideal, what is the depth of slab that building control will accept? I plan to use a good...

I am about to replace a floor in an 1890's terraced house. The undersite is solid clay. While I appreciate that up to 18" should be removed to be ideal, what is the depth of slab that building control will accept? I plan to use a good levelling layer of sharp sand beneath the 1200 DPM on the...

Thanks Woody, I'll check with Building control.

Thanks Woody, I am proposing to use Celotex T4000 as the insulation, and no I don't need the ends to fix barge boards to, so I hope to stop them in the inner leaf. Noggins are also required to seal the Celotex joints to.

Yes, I appreciate that, I will try to get some next week, as I live some distance away. Basically, the rear of his terrace kitchen is 2.5m wide, and a single storey extension goes out 1.3m, with a rubbish pitched roof. It is only 5'10" inside at the end of the extension, and we wish to raise...

Thanks Freddy, in what way clarify?

I must have upset someone! :cry: :cry: :cry: